Articles & Publications

Introduction: Oral collagen supplementation has been investigated as a strategy to support skin appearance, although clinical effects are generally modest. In aesthetic dermatology, both the magnitude and temporal pattern of changes are relevant.

Objective: To assess the effects of oral supplementation with collagen oligopeptides on facial wrinkle appearance in women aged 45-60 years.

Methods: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial was conducted in 102 women. Participants received collagen oligopeptides (2.5 g/day) or a placebo for 12 weeks. Wrinkle intensity was the primary endpoint, assessed using standardized digital imaging. Dermal density and collagen-related optical signals were analyzed as exploratory outcomes.

Results: A significant reduction in wrinkle intensity was observed in the active group at week 8. A reduction was already apparent at week 4, although not statistically significant, and values remained numerically lower at week 12. The placebo group showed minor variations. Exploratory parameters showed numerical increases but were not statistically significant.

Conclusion: Collagen oligopeptide supplementation was associated with a reduction in wrinkle intensity, with an early effect that was partially maintained over time, indicating a measurable aesthetic benefit.

Hair graying is a prominent sign of aging, characterized by progressive loss of hair pigmentation, primarily associated with melanocyte dysfunction and influenced by multiple genetic, physiological, environmental, lifestyle, nutritional, and medical factors. Beyond its aesthetic impact, gray hair may affect self-image, confidence, and psychological wellbeing, driving demand for effective, non-invasive cosmetic strategies to restore a more youthful appearance while supporting scalp and hair health.

Rapid and recurrent shifts in temperature and humidity are increasingly common in modern urban environments and may challenge skin homeostasis. As the primary interface with the environment, the epidermis is particularly vulnerable to these fluctuations, which can compromise barrier integrity and hydration. Although the effects of individual stressors such as heat, cold, and low humidity are well documented, the impact of abrupt and sequential environmental changes, which better reflect real-life exposure, remains poorly understood. These stressors can modulate thermosensitive TRP channels, inflammatory pathways, and epidermal differentiation, which potentially affecting key structural proteins and barrier function. However, their combined and sequential effects on epidermal biomarkers remain unclear.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory skin disease involving epidermal barrier dysfunction, immune dysregulation, and altered host–microbiome interactions. Central to its pathogenesis is a Th2-skewed immune response, characterized by elevated levels of interleukin-4 (IL-4) and interleukin-13 (IL-13), which directly impair keratinocyte differentiation and downregulate epidermal key structural proteins such as filaggrin. The resulting barrier disruption promotes increased transepidermal water loss, enhanced penetration of allergens and irritants, and heightened susceptibility to microbial colonization, perpetuating a vicious cycle of inflammation and barrier impairment.

Skin inflammation and barrier impairment are closely interconnected processes involved in skin sensitivity, discomfort, and premature aging. External aggressors can trigger inflammatory cascades, increasing interleukin-1 alpha (IL-1α) levels and activating nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB). These responses may compromise epidermal barrier proteins, including filaggrin, and contribute to extracellular matrix degradation, affecting structural components such as collagen I. Barrier disruption may further facilitate irritant penetration, perpetuating inflammation and skin fragility. Therefore, simultaneously targeting inflammation, barrier integrity, and dermal structure represents a relevant strategy for maintaining skin homeostasis and resilience.

Objective Simmondsia chinensis is a well-known commercially popular plant from which jojoba oil is extracted. Jojoba cake is a sustainably produced, intractable by-product of the jojoba seed oil extraction currently used principally as a fertilizer or burned as fuel. Fermentation work conducted with various microorganisms, including Lactobacillus plantarum , Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Streptococcus thermophilus , sustainably grown on aqueous jojoba cake fermented the cake, liberating jojoba-based amino acids, peptides and proteins. The ferments have been examined chemically and via in vitro cell and tissue studies to develop new skin and scalp care targeted ingredients. Methods The jojoba cake contained nutrients (proteins, sugars and lipids) that self-sustain aqueous bacterial fermentation. The ferments were examined on 3D tissue models in vitro via human genomic microarrays. A ferment produced by Lactobacillus plantarum was further tested in vitro using ELISA protein assays on skin cell cultures. A 56-day clinical study on 46 individuals examined the influence of 1.0% of the Lactobacillus ferment on collagen expression using Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (DRS). Results Gene responses were measured on 244+ genes known to have skin functions. It was found that the Lactobacillus ferment showed the greatest upregulation of skin-associated genes, and three highly upregulated proteins were examined more closely in vitro using ELISA protein assays: collagen-1A1, protocadherin-18 and opioid growth factor receptor. Each protein was upregulated in a dose-dependent fashion. The collagen analysis by DRS demonstrated a statistically significant increase in collagen fluorescence on Day 28 and Day 56 compared to baseline and placebo cream. Further mapping of the collagen fluorescence was done on the individuals using the active formulation at Days 0, 28 and 56. Conclusion Jojoba cake presents a new source of sustainably grown biomass, but the cake is not suitable for topical applications. Fermentation produces components more suitable for topical care. In vitro studies demonstrated upregulation of three skin proteins associated with healing skin. Further studies also employed a newly emerging spectroscopic technique to measure collagen fluorescence in the skin in vivo , the results supporting in vitro work indicating the ferment made with Lactobacillus was able to stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin.

The combination of chemist techniques is a powerful tool on hair's structure observation and its behavior when submitted to different process, like chemical damages as bleaching and ultraviolet radiation exposition, or physical damages, like successive brushing. This study mimicked solar radiation damage suffered by hair fibers during Brazilian summer (3 months of intense sun), and compared this kind of damage with the ones caused by bleaching process using different techniques. Natural hair after radiation exposition showed cuticular damages compared to the effects caused by a bleaching. The increase of cystic components oxidation and hydrophobicity decrease were observed when natural hair was exposed to 96 and 192 hours of ultraviolet ( UV ) radiation. Additionally, keratin's degradation enthalpy of damaged hair showed a decrease of mean values in comparison to natural healthy hair. These changes can be explained due the protein and lipidic oxidative damages caused by UV radiation, causing alterations on cuticular level. Regarding cortical damage, natural hair tresses exposed to UV radiation for 192 hours exhibited a significant decrease in mechanical parameters—specifically, force at 20% elongation and elongation at break—when compared with the initial condition of both bleached and double-bleached hair. This suggests that UV exposure exerts a more pronounced impact on these mechanical properties than chemical oxidation alone. In contrast, the enthalpy measurements show that the chemical degradation caused by bleaching is comparable to the structural alterations observed after 192 hours of UV exposure. Moreover, double bleaching results in substantially more severe degradation of structural proteins than that induced by UV radiation.

The safety of nail polishes is a significant concern due to the frequent exposure of nails and skin to their components, including solvents, resins, pigments, plasticizers, and thixotropic agents. These ingredients play essential roles, such as providing durability and flexibility to the product, but may contain chemical substances like formaldehyde, toluene, and mica, which are associated with sensitization, contact dermatitis, allergic reactions, and skin irritation. These factors underscore the importance of rigorous and meticulous control in the formulation of such products to ensure consumer safety. Primary and cumulative dermal irritability, as well as sensitization, providing scientific support for claims such as dermatologically tested, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing. Primary dermal irritability was evaluated on the fingernails of the right hand's little and ring fingers, with assessments conducted at 48 and 96 hours. For cumulative irritability, the product was applied to the fingernails of the right hand's middle and index fingers, using the left hand as a control, across nine applications over three weeks. Following a ten-day rest period, the challenge phase began, during which the product was applied to the right thumb (virgin area) while the left thumb served as a control. All reactions were classified according to the ICDRG (International Contact Dermatitis Research Group) criteria and a specific scoring system for nail alterations, with predefined evaluation time points. The pilot study, conducted with 65 participants, evaluated a nail polish containing organic solvents, nitrocellulose, resins, pigments, and plasticizers. The Individual Dermal Irritation Index (IdiI) was calculated for each participant, and the Mean Dermal Irritation Index (MdiI) was used to classify the product. Classification criteria included: MdiI=0.0 (non-irritating - excellent compatibility), MdiI<0.2 (non-irritating - good compatibility), with higher ranges indicating varying degrees of irritation. The product showed an IdiI of 0.00 and was classified as non-irritating with excellent dermal compatibility. The methodology proved effective in identifying adverse reactions, confirming the product as non-irritating and non-sensitizing. These findings support the safety and regulatory compliance of nail products and promote the development of dermatologically safe cosmetics for nail use.

Skin aging involves intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to epidermal thinning, loss of dermal ridges, and attenuation of papillae, which impair epidermal nourishment.1,2 Additionally, collagen and elastin degradation in the dermis, compounded by reduced fibroblast activity, compromises skin structure and resilience.3,4 This study aimed to clinically evaluate the efficacy of the skincare formulation F4565.33896 in reducing signs of skin aging, using biometric and imaging analyses, along with immunofluorescence analysis of skin biopsies to assess biological markers related to aging. This study, approved by the Ethics Committee (project 63574322.4.0000.5514), included 33 participants (64±3 years). A formulation (F4565.33896), containing tocopherol, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, and plant-derived bioactive, was applied to one forearm and the face for 56 days, with the opposite forearm as a control. Evaluations included cutometric measurements for firmness and elasticity, digital and 3D imaging for wrinkles, texture, and contours, ultrasonography for dermal density (T0, T28, T56), and skin biopsies (T0, T28) for biomarker analysis (type I pro-collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid). Treatment with a formulation F4565.33896 significantly improved skin firmness (19.7% at T28, 20.9% at T56) and elasticity (12.7% at T28, 13.4% at T56). Wrinkles and fine lines reduced by up to 13.7% at T28 and 16.2% at T56, while deep wrinkles decreased by up to 6.9% and 8.5%. Facial texture improved by 8.1% at T28 and 9.1% at T56, and sagging reduced with enhanced contour definition (1.1% at T28, 1.4% at T56). Dermal density increased significantly (11.8% at T28, 19.5% at T56). Additionally, marked boosts in type I pro-collagen (191.85%), elastin (283.95%), and hyaluronic acid production (112.58%) was observed at T28. This study, employing advanced evaluation methods, demonstrated that F4565.33896 significantly improved skin firmness and elasticity, reduced wrinkles and sagging, while also increasing dermal density and enhancing the synthesis of type I collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, suggesting extracellular matrix regeneration. These findings highlight the potential of the active ingredients in the formulation to improve the biomechanical properties of the skin and mitigate signs of aging, consistent with the observed clinical results.

The cosmetic use of hydrogen peroxide can lead to degradation of protein chains at the hair fiber matrix level due to oxidative effects on –S-S– and SO₃– groups that compose human hair. Also, accumulation of H₂O₂ can degrade melanin and damage melanocytes. This study aimed to evaluate the degradation caused by H₂O₂ in hair fiber and follicles using (FTIR-ATR), combined with hair fiber mechanical resistance testing and immunolabeling of melanogenesis associated proteins. Natural Asian, Caucasian, and Curly hair strands were exposed 1 hour to 3.5% H₂O₂ Young’s modulus and Force at 20% deformation were measured, cystine/amid area ratio and disulfide bridges were quantified from FTIR-ATR spectra. Measurements were taken 5 cm above the strand section submerged in peroxide, highlighting the agent's capillary action and damage displacement. Additionally, follicles obtained from microdissection were cultured and exposed to 3.5% H₂O₂, followed by histological analysis and CKIT and MITF immunolabeling. Hair strands exposed to peroxide damage showed a reduction in Young’s modulus and Force at 20% specific deformation compared to natural hair, following an increasing order of damage: Caucasian, Asian, and Curly. The average cystine/amid area ratio of damaged strands was higher than that of natural hair. Similarly, the area of disulfide bonds in exposed hair strands showed a decrease compared to natural hair, following the same increasing order of damage. Additionally, in the follicles, H₂O₂ exposure caused reductions in MITF and C-kit markings compared to the unexposed group. The cystine/amid area ratio reflects the oxidation level of hair disulfide bonds, with a higher ratio indicating greater fiber damage. Lower disulfide bond area values further confirm bond degradation. This highlights that peroxide-induced damage extends beyond the immersed hair portion, potentially reaching follicles and the hair bulb. This finding is supported by the reduction in hair strand resistance caused by oxidative damage to the cortical matrix, with an increasing order of damage: Caucasian, Asian, and Curly. Also, the images obtained highlighted a reduction in MITF and C-KIT proteins, affecting melanogenesis by disrupting regulatory points and signaling pathways in melanocytes.

Vitamin D3 plays an important role in the skin. However, lack of vitamin D3 is prevalent in developed and developing countries among a population of all ages. It leads to premature dryness, hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity and formation of wrinkles. Thus, this research was aimed at investigation of Passiflora edulis extract and its stimulation of vitamin D3 synthesis in skin under and without UVB radiation. Through in silico analysis to predict the affinity to lanosterol oxidase and vitamin D3 receptor by AutoDock, chlorogenic acid as a part of Passiflora edulis extract was chosen for a stimulation of vitamin D3 synthesis in skin. Firstly, the determination of non-cytotoxic concentration for further evaluation was performed by a colorimetric method using MTT dye. Secondly, human keratinocytes were incubated with standardized Passiflora edulis extract at 3 non-cytotoxic concentrations of 10.01, 3.17 and 1.00 mg/mL in 37°C for 72 hours. Keratinocytes were also exposed to 50 mJ/cm² of UVB. Then, the supernatant was collected for quantification of the vitamin D3 using ELISA assay. It was established that Passiflora edulis extract showed a good toxicological profile. The extract promoted the production of vitamin D3 in skin epidermal cells. Moreover, the Passiflora edulis extract at concentrations of 10.01, 3.17, and 1.00 mg/mL increased of vitamin D3 amounts up to 274.04%, 151.22%, and 125.86% respectively, compared to the basal control without UVB influence (p<0.01). As anticipated, exposure to UVB radiation exhibited significant increase in vitamin D3 up to 146% compared to the basal control (p<0.01). Nevertheless, the Passiflora edulis extract at concentrations of 10.01 and 3.17 mg/mL under UVB radiation demonstrated noteworthy effects, significantly increasing vitamin D3 up to 61.41% and 45.82% respectively, compared to the UVB positive control (p<0.05). The novel Passiflora edulis extract worked as a booster of vitamin D3 synthesis for anti-ageing effect. The obtained results confirmed that the Passiflora edulis extract enriched chlorogenic acid has a beneficial effect to stimulate the vitamin D3 synthesis in skin epidermis under or without UVB radiation. Nevertheless, additional studies of stability in formulations, dermatological tolerance in the cosmeceutical products, and clinical research of vitamin D3 level are needed to fully confirm the beneficial effects.

El envejecimiento cutáneo es un proceso multifactorial cuyo principal mecanismo es la producción excesiva de radicales libres, lo que genera un ambiente de estrés oxidativo tras la exposición de la piel a diversas agresiones externas. El objetivo de este estudio fue evaluar los efectos de un fotoprotector (DC-22030-12) en la prevención de los daños cutáneos inducidos por la radiación ultravioleta (UV) y infrarroja-A (IR-A), utilizando un modelo experimental de cultivo de piel humana. Fragmentos de piel humana, obtenidos de cirugías plásticas electivas, fueron tratados con DC-22030-12 y posteriormente expuestos a radiación UV o IR-A. Se realizaron mediciones de especies reactivas de oxígeno (ROS), colágeno, elastina, metaloproteinasa de matriz tipo 1 (MMP-1), melanina y tirosinasa. Los resultados muestran que DC-22030-12 tiene un efecto profiláctico al prevenir el aumento en la producción de ROS, melanina y tirosinasa inducido por la radiación UV. Asimismo, la formulación evitó la reducción en la síntesis de colágeno y elastina ocasionada por la radiación UV. Además, DC-22030-12 mantuvo niveles de MMP-1 similares a los observados en condiciones basales, incluso bajo estrés inducido por la radiación IR-A. Los mecanismos de acción demostrados por DC-22030-12 evidencian su capacidad de proteger contra el aumento excesivo de la síntesis de ROS, preservar la estructura de la matriz extracelular - en particular el colágeno y la elastina y atenuar el proceso de envejecimiento cutáneo. Adicionalmente, este fotoprotector muestra un papel prometedor en el control de la melanogénesis, al reducir la actividad de la tirosinasa y la producción de melanina. Estos hallazgos indican que DC-22030-12 ejerce un efecto integral, mitigando los daños causados por diferentes agentes externos, como la radiación UV e IR-A. Así, además de proporcionar fotoprotección física y química, el producto contribuye a equilibrar la producción de biomarcadores, reduciendo la susceptibilidad del tejido y las alteraciones estéticas asociadas al envejecimiento cutâneo.

La seguridad del esmalte de uñas representa una preocupación fundamental debido a la constante exposición a sus componentes. Estos ingredientes suelen asociarse con reacciones alérgicas e irritación dérmica, lo que subraya la necesidad de un control exhaustivo y meticuloso en la formulación de dichos productos para garantizar su seguridad. El propósito del estudio es establecer una metodología para evaluar la seguridad de los productos para uñas. La irritación dérmica primaria y acumulativa, así como la sensibilización, proporcionan respaldo científico a afirmaciones como “dermatológicamente probado”, “no irritante” y “no sensibilizante”. La irritación dérmica primaria fue evaluada en las uñas del dedo meñique y del dedo anular de la mano derecha, con evaluaciones realizadas a las 48 y 96 horas. Para la irritación acumulativa, el producto se aplicó en las uñas de los dedos medio e índice de la mano derecha, utilizando la mano izquierda como control, en un total de nueve aplicaciones durante tres semanas. Tras un período de descanso de diez días, comenzó la fase de desafío, en la que el producto se aplicó en el pulgar derecho (zona virgen), mientras que el pulgar izquierdo sirvió como control. Todas las reacciones fueron clasificadas de acuerdo con los criterios del ICDRG (Grupo Internacional de Investigación de Dermatitis de Contacto) y un sistema de puntuación específico para trastornos de las uñas, con puntos de tiempo de evaluación predefinidos. El estudio piloto, realizado con 65 participantes, evaluó un esmalte de uñas que contiene disolventes orgánicos, nitrocelulosa, resinas, pigmentos y plastificantes. La metodología resultó eficaz para identificar reacciones adversas, confirmando que el producto no es ni irritante ni sensibilizante. La metodología identificó reacciones adversas y respaldó la seguridad del producto, considerado 'no irritante' y 'no sensibilizante'. Protocolos estandarizados garantizan resultados consistentes, promoviendo cosméticos seguros y contribuyendo a la regulación e innovación en dermatología cosmética.

O envelhecimento da pele é um processo multifatorial cujo principal mecanismo é a produção excessiva de radicais livres, o que gera um ambiente de estresse oxidativo após a pele ser exposta a diversas agressões externas. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar os efeitos de um fotoprotetor (DC-180924-00) na prevenção de danos à pele induzidos pela radiação ultravioleta (UV) e infravermelha-A (IV-A), utilizando um modelo experimental de cultura de pele humana. Fragmentos de pele humana, obtidos de cirurgias plásticas eletivas, foram tratados com DC-180924-00 e posteriormente expostos à radiação UV ou IR-A para mensuração da produção de espécies reativas de oxigênio (ROS), pró-colágeno tipo 1 (pCOL1), elastina e metaloproteinase de matriz tipo 1 (MMP-1). Adicionalmente foi avaliada a habilidade do produto em estimular a produção de Ki67. Os resultados mostram que o DC-180924-00 tem efeito profilático ao prevenir, tanto o aumento da produção de ROS, quanto a diminuição na produção de pCOL1 e elastina, induzidos pela radiação UV. A formulação também foi capaz de manter os níveis de MMP-1 semelhantes aos observados em condições basais, mesmo sob estresse induzido por radiação IV-A. Esses efeitos biológicos demonstram a capacidade do fotoprotetor em proteger contra o estresse oxidativo e preservar a estrutura da matriz extracelular – colágeno, elastina e MMP-1, atenuando o processo de envelhecimento da pele. Além disso, foram observados aumentos significativos na síntese da proteína Ki67, sugerindo um aumento da proliferação e renovação epidérmica, com melhora na vitalidade e rejuvenescimento da pele. Esses resultados indicam que o DC-180924-00 apresenta um efeito antienvelhecimento amplo, atuando de forma eficaz na mitigação de danos causados por agentes externos, como radiação UV e IV-A, e promovendo a renovação epidérmica. Assim, além de oferecer fotoproteção física e química, o produto contribui para a longevidade da saúde cutânea, equilibrando a produção de biomarcadores essenciais. Com isso, reduz a vulnerabilidade dos tecidos aos danos cumulativos e previne alterações estéticas associadas ao envelhecimento, favorecendo uma pele mais resiliente, funcional e jovem ao longo do tempo.

O tape stripping é uma técnica não invasiva amplamente empregada para estudos cutâneos in vivo, comumente utilizada para avaliar a regeneração e o fortalecimento da barreira epidérmica, bem como a perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL). Apesar de consolidada nesses contextos, sua aplicação em análises microscópicas funcionais permanece pouco explorada. Neste estudo, investigamos a viabilidade da coloração de marcadores intracelulares com diclorofluoresceína diacetato (DCFH-DA), marcador de espécies reativas de oxigênio (ROS), em amostras obtidas por tape stripping, com o objetivo de estabelecer seu uso em estudos de imagem. Foram coletadas 50 fitas sequenciais da região do antebraço de um voluntário saudável, utilizando fitas Corneofix® (CK Electronic, Alemanha), uma fita adesiva especial desenvolvida para coletar corneócitos (fragmentos de células mortas), mas que se mostrou uma excelente alternativa também para a obtenção de células viáveis. As fitas de número 10 e 50 foram selecionadas para análise, representando camadas mais superficiais do estrato córneo e da epiderme, respectivamente. Após coloração com DCFH-DA, as amostras foram analisadas por microscopia de fluorescência. Para cada grupo (T10 e T50), foram avaliadas três imagens representativas. As fitas de número 10 apresentaram acúmulo de resíduos de estrato córneo, com média de 1,3 células fluorescentes por campo, enquanto as fitas de número 50 evidenciaram células viáveis com morfologia preservada e fluorescência intracelular, com média de 2,67 células por campo. Os resultados demonstram que o tape stripping pode ser uma ferramenta eficaz para análises microscópicas in vivo de marcadores intracelulares, cuja expressão pode ser modulada por formulações ou ativos. Além disso, a técnica possibilita a investigação da interação de ativos com o estrato córneo de forma minimamente invasiva. Trata-se de um avanço importante frente aos modelos ex-vivo, cuja viabilidade tecidual é limitada a curtos períodos experimentais. A incorporação de metodologias de imagem ao tape stripping amplia significativamente seu potencial de aplicação em estudos dermatológicos e cosméticos, especialmente aqueles voltados ao estresse oxidativo e à dinâmica celular epidérmica.