Articles & Publications

23rd World Congress of Dermatology, Vancouver, 8-13 July, 2015. Ayres E, Costa A, Clerici SP, Eberlin S. Hyperpigmentation is a common dermatologic condition, often associated with sunlight exposure, and a relatively difficult condition to treat. Pycnogenol, an extract from French maritime pine bark with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, has shown the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin biosynthesis in previous studies. This study aimed to evaluate the skin lightening properties of pycnogenol using an ex vivo model of skin culture after ultraviolet A (UVA)/B (UVB), infrared-A (IR-A), and visible light (VL) irradiation. Histological evaluation demonstrated an increase in melanin pigmentation in all irradiated fragments compared to the control fragment. Conversely, the fragments treated with pycnogenol demonstrated a clear decrease in melanin density after irradiation. This study demonstrates a decrease in melanin deposition in cell cultures treated with pycnogenol after UVA, UVB, IR-A, and visible light irradiation, proving its skin lightening properties and suggesting its use in the treatment of cutaneous hyperpigmentation.

23rd World Congress of Dermatology, Vancouver, 8-13 July, 2015. Costa A, Pereira CS, Eberlin S, Clerici SP, Mendonça JA. Obesity is a major health problem worldwide due to its high prevalence and morbidity. The accumulation of fat in the central region is determined by abdominal circumference and features visceral obesity, which is associated with metabolic disorders and can evolve into cardiovascular or cerebrovascular events. Low-frequency laser diode therapy is a noninvasive procedure that can be used to reduce body fat through a specific wavelength targeting fat cells, preserving adjacent structures. The aim of this study was to evaluate the reduction of abdominal fat in volunteers undergoing low-frequency laser diode therapy. There was a reduction in abdominal circumferences in the evaluated areas, as well as reductions in weight and BMI. In the analysis of ultrasound data (gray-scale), there was a significant reduction in dermis and hypodermis thickness in relation to D0. We also observed a significant increase in the thickness of the epidermis and Grenz zone in histological sections of biopsies obtained at D0 and D31. The therapy showed a slight decrease in HDL and an increase in LDL in the analyzed period. There were no reports of adverse events. Low-frequency laser diode therapy showed significant results in the reduction of body fat and abdominal circumference measurements. The results demonstrate the ability of laser therapy to assist in abdominal fat loss and help reduce morbidity and mortality related to central obesity.

Inflammation & Allergy Drug Targets 14(1), 53-59, 2015. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2174/1871528114666151022145655 Costa A, Eberlin S, Clerici SP, Abdalla BMZ. Harmful influences in the process of photoaging and skin damage are associated with infrared A (IRA) radiation, such as disturbance of dermal extracellular matrix by upregulation of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). Furthermore, DNA damage, induction of cytotoxicity, and oxidative stress by decreasing natural antioxidant ability have been reported after acute exposure to IRA. The present study provides additional evidence that IRA radiation response in human skin fibroblasts produces deleterious effects to the cell, such as accelerating aging and weakening their antioxidant defense mechanism. Human skin fibroblasts were exposed to a non-cytotoxic dose of IRA radiation and cultured for different periods for further collection of cell-free supernatants and lysates, and quantification of MMP-1, catalase, superoxide dismutase, and GADD45a. Our results corroborate previously published data and strongly indicate a negative impact of IRA radiation on skin physiology by mechanisms involving reduced endogenous antioxidant enzymatic defense, increased MMP-1, and decreased DNA repair process by reducing GADD45a protein in cultured human fibroblasts. From a clinical perspective, IRA radiation acts by mechanisms distinct from those observed in ultraviolet radiation, indicating the need for developing and making available cosmetics for skin care with properties beyond the protection exerted by traditional sunscreens.

Surgical and Cosmetic Dermatology 7(4), 303-7, 2015. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5935/scd1984-8773.201574736 Ayres EL, Costa A, Eberlin S, Clerici SP. A hiperpigmentação é uma condição dermatológica frequente, geralmente associada à exposição solar e com relativa dificuldade de tratamento. Pycnogenol® é um extrato obtido do pinheiro francês Pinus pinaster, com conhecida atividade antioxidante e anti-inflamatória, tendo demonstrado em estudos prévios a capacidade de inibir a síntese de melanina. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar a atividade clareadora do Pycnogenol® em um modelo experimental ex vivo após exposição à radiação ultravioleta A e B, infravermelha-A e luz visível. Fragmentos de pele humana obtidos de cirurgia plástica eletiva foram tratados com Pycnogenol® e posteriormente submetidos à radiação ultravioleta A e B, infravermelha-A e luz visível, para avaliação histológica da pigmentação melânica pela técnica Fontana-Masson. A avaliação histológica demonstrou aumento na deposição de melanina em todos os grupos irradiados. Entretanto, os fragmentos incubados previamente com Pycnogenol® demonstraram redução na deposição desse pigmento após a irradiação. Este estudo demonstra a redução na deposição de melanina em cultura de pele tratada com Pycnogenol®, depois de submetida à radiação tanto ultravioleta A e B quanto infravermelha-A, bem como à luz visível, e conclui que essa substância pode apresentar propriedades clareadoras.

International Journal of Dermatology, 2017. DOI: 10.1111/ijd.13569. Costa A, Facchini G, Pinheiro ALTA, Silva MS, Bonner MY, Arbister J, Eberlin S. Pollution, especially cigarette smoke, is a major cause of skin damage. We assessed the effects of the small molecule polyphenol on reversing cigarette smoke-induced damage in vitro to relevant skin cells. Keratinocyte (HaCat) cultures were exposed to cigarette smoke and, after 48 hours, IL-1β and IL-8 were measured in cell supernatants. Moreover, TIMP-2 production, apoptosis rate, and senescence β-galactosidase expression were evaluated in primary human fibroblast (HFF-1) cultures. Honokiol at 10 μM reduced IL-1β production by 3.4-fold (p<0.05), and at 10 and 20 μM reduced IL-8 by 23.9% and 53.1% (p<0.001), respectively, in HaCat keratinocytes. In HFF-1, honokiol restored TIMP-2 production by 96.9% and 91.9% (p<0.001), respectively, at 10 and 20 μM, as well as reduced apoptosis by 47.1% (p<0.001) and 41.3% (p<0.01), respectively. Finally, honokiol reduced senescence-associated β-galactosidase expression in HFF-1. Honokiol protects both HFF-1 and HaCat against cigarette smoke-induced inflammation, collagenolysis, apoptosis, and senescence.

Surgical and Cosmetic Dermatology 7(2), 123-8, 2015. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.5935/scd1984-8773.2015722 Costa A, Eberlin S, Clerici SP, Abdalla BMZ. A pele pode apresentar disfunções que levam a alterações histológicas e lesões elementares, muitas delas decorrentes de mecanismos imunológicos e/ou alteração da barreira epidérmica. O objetivo deste estudo é avaliar se alguns produtos cosméticos, na apresentação sabonete líquido, encontrados no mercado brasileiro, apresentam eficácia anti-inflamatória e protetora de barreira cutânea in vitro. Trata-se de estudo in vitro, no qual quatro sabonetes comerciais foram avaliados em culturas celulares de queratinócitos humanos para determinação das atividades anti-inflamatória, restauradora de barreira epidérmica e redutora da hipersensibilidade cutânea. As concentrações de queratina 10 e 14, loricrina, IL-12, IFN-γ e TRPV-1 foram dosadas nos sobrenadantes das culturas celulares de queratinócitos humanos por ensaio ELISA sanduíche. As quatro substâncias-teste promoveram reduções significativas na síntese de IFN-γ e IL-12. Somente a substância-teste C desencadeou aumento significativo na síntese de queratina 10. Todas as substâncias-teste demonstraram reduções significativas na síntese de queratina 14, aumento significativo na síntese de loricrina e reduções significativas na síntese de TRPV-1. Alguns produtos cosméticos em sabonete podem apresentar resultados in vitro no tocante às atividades anti-inflamatória, restauradora de barreira epidérmica e redutora da hipersensibilidade cutânea.

2° COLAMA (Congreso Latino-Americano sobre Métodos Alternativos em los Ensayos, la Investigación, la Industria y la Educación), Cuba, 5-9 July, 2015. Vanzo ACJR, Pereira AFC, Cascais LC, Lage R, Andrade CC, Clerici SP, Facchini G, Pinheiro ALTA, Pinheiro AS, Eberlin S. O dano solar cutâneo é atribuído quase que exclusivamente à radiação ultravioleta (RUV). Contudo, a literatura reporta que a radiação do tipo infravermelha (IV) promove alterações histológicas similares àquelas induzidas pela exposição crônica à RUV. A radiação IV pode causar dois tipos de efeitos: o térmico, que pode ser benéfico ou danoso dependendo da dose, e o dano oxidativo, que fica mais restrito à faixa próxima do infravermelho A (IV-A). Um evento bastante comum após a exposição à radiação IV é a diminuição na síntese das principais proteínas dérmicas, colágeno e elastina, essenciais para a sustentação do tecido. Essa alteração ocorre em consequência do estresse oxidativo induzido por espécies reativas de oxigênio geradas após a exposição à radiação e leva ao aumento de enzimas proteolíticas como a metaloproteinase de matriz tipo 1 (MMP-1). Essa proteinase, por sua vez, desencadeia um colapso na matriz extracelular e, consequentemente, o aparecimento de sinais prematuros do envelhecimento cutâneo. Nesta direção, o objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar a eficácia de cinco formulações cosméticas na proteção contra o fotodano causado pela radiação infravermelha A em cultura de fibroblastos humanos através da mensuração da produção de MMP-1. Nos resultados podemos visualizar o efeito danoso da radiação IV-A, onde as células estressadas demonstraram um aumento significativo na síntese de MMP-1, quando comparado ao grupo controle basal. Por outro lado, as cinco formulações promoveram um efeito protetor, prevenindo o aumento acentuado na produção de MMP-1, em comparação ao controle irradiado. Estas observações permitem sugerir que as formulações exercem efeito protetor contra o aumento excessivo na síntese de MMP-1 induzida pela radiação IV-A, preservando o colágeno, que é uma estrutura fundamental de sustentação tecidual, cujo comprometimento contribui para o processo de envelhecimento cutâneo.

2° COLAMA (Congreso Latino-Americano sobre Métodos Alternativos em los Ensayos, la Investigación, la Industria y la Educación), Cuba, 5-9 July, 2015. Facchini G, Clerici SP, Eberlin S, Pinheiro AS, Pinheiro ALTA, Eberlin S. Por muito tempo, acreditou-se que o fotoenvelhecimento cutâneo fosse exclusivamente atribuído à radiação do tipo ultravioleta, mas ultimamente a radiação infravermelha A (IVA) tem despertado interesse da comunidade científica por causar alterações estruturais na pele similares àquelas observadas pela exposição prolongada à radiação ultravioleta. Contudo, com o advento da política dos 3R (Replace, Refine and Reduce), as investigações aplicadas ao mercado cosmético sobre o entendimento deste fotoenvelhecimento proporcionado pela IVA ficaram restritas aos testes in vitro e clínicos. A avaliação dos mecanismos biológicos utilizando como sistema-teste biópsias cutâneas obtidas de voluntários humanos constitui um modelo para compreensão dos danos que um agente agressor pode deflagrar. Contudo, esse procedimento pode ser considerado invasivo como ferramenta de investigação cotidiana. Dessa forma, uma alternativa para suprir essa lacuna entre o in vitro e o clínico é a utilização de fragmentos de pele provenientes de cirurgias plásticas eletivas (estudo ex vivo). Assim, o objetivo desta investigação foi correlacionar os efeitos da radiação IVA, tanto em biópsias quanto em fragmentos de pele ex vivo e cultura de fibroblastos humanos, através da quantificação dos mediadores MMP-1, TIMP-1 e GADD45a. Os resultados demonstraram que, nos três modelos utilizados, a radiação IVA induziu aumento de MMP-1 e não alterou os valores do inibidor desta protease/colagenase (TIMP-1). Efeito semelhante pode ser observado com a proteína GADD45a, pois a radiação IVA foi capaz de inibir a síntese deste sensor de estresse celular tanto em biópsias quanto nos fragmentos ex vivo e em cultura de células. Deste modo, devido à correlação positiva dos resultados entre os três modelos estudados, pode-se sugerir que uma metodologia alternativa ao uso de biópsias humanas é a utilização do modelo ex vivo, pois caracteriza-se como uma ferramenta plausível e sustentável para suprir as diferenças entre os conhecimentos gerados a partir de experimentos in vitro e clínicos.

2° COLAMA (Congreso Latino-Americano sobre Métodos Alternativos em los Ensayos, la Investigación, la Industria y la Educación), Cuba, 5-9 July, 2015. Vanzo ACJR, Pereira AFC, Cascais LC, Lage R, Andrade CC, Araujo RB, Clerici SP, Facchini G, Pinheiro ALTA, Pinheiro AS, Eberlin S. O envelhecimento cutâneo extrínseco é influenciado, sobretudo, pela radiação ultravioleta, mas também pela poluição, resultante do tabagismo, produtos químicos, calor e demais insultos ambientais. A fumaça do cigarro contém mais de 4000 compostos tóxicos, incluindo muitos hidrocarbonetos aromáticos policíclicos (HAP), dioxinas e furanos que exercem efeitos prejudiciais sobre a pele, podendo resultar desde alterações inestéticas, como perda de elasticidade e firmeza, até desordens patológicas, como má cicatrização de feridas, carcinoma de células escamosas, melanoma, câncer oral, acne, psoríase, eczema e alopecia. A maioria desses efeitos é mediada pelo receptor AhR (receptor aril hidrocarboneto), um fator de transcrição citosólico encontrado na forma inativa, que se liga ao agente tóxico sendo então translocado para o núcleo da célula onde regula a transcrição de genes envolvidos com estresse oxidativo, inflamação, imunossupressão, pigmentação, envelhecimento prematuro e câncer de pele. Neste sentido, o objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar, in vitro, a eficácia antipoluição de três formulações cosméticas através da quantificação da produção do receptor AhR em cultura de fibroblastos humanos expostos à fumaça de cigarro. Os resultados demonstraram que a exposição das células à fumaça de cigarro promove uma redução de 32,7% na disponibilidade de AhR no citoplasma das células quando comparado ao controle basal não exposto. Esse resultado indica uma possível migração do receptor para o núcleo celular acoplado ao agente xenobiótico, o que culmina na ativação de genes relacionados, por exemplo, à inflamação e imunossupressão. Por outro lado, as formulações avaliadas demonstraram um efeito inibidor da translocação nuclear de AhR, impedindo assim a ativação de genes responsáveis pelos efeitos danosos da fumaça do cigarro. Dessa forma, as formulações cosméticas podem ajudar a diminuir e atenuar os aspectos e os sinais do envelhecimento cutâneo produzido pela exposição constante à poluição, em particular, à fumaça de cigarro.

28º Congresso Brasileiro de Cosmetologia, São Paulo, 12-14 Maio, 2015. Clerici SP, Pereira AFC, Araujo RB, Ferreira ASB, Torloni LBO, Lage R, Cascais LC, Moreira F, Frazilho M, Mercuri M, Andrade CC, Yamashita JT, Pinheiro ALTA, Pinheiro AS, Eberlin S. A radiação solar é a maior fonte de energia no planeta Terra e necessária para o desenvolvimento e manutenção da vida e das condições climáticas. A radiação eletromagnética emitida pelo Sol é composta por diversos espectros de comprimentos variáveis, sendo a radiação ultravioleta e infravermelha as mais abundantes. Por muito tempo, acreditou-se que o fotoenvelhecimento cutâneo fosse exclusivamente atribuído à radiação do tipo ultravioleta, mas, ultimamente, a radiação infravermelha tem despertado interesse da comunidade científica por causar alterações clínicas na pele similares àquelas observadas pela exposição prolongada à radiação ultravioleta. A exposição à radiação infravermelha está associada com o aumento da expressão gênica e proteica da enzima matriz metaloproteinase 1, que apresenta atividade proteolítica sobre componentes essenciais à manutenção da integridade e sustentação da pele, como o colágeno e a elastina. Sendo assim, o objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar o efeito da exposição à radiação infravermelha A sobre culturas de fibroblastos humanos e a eficácia pré-clínica de doze (12) produtos cosméticos na proteção contra o fotodano causado por esta radiação. Para isso, fibroblastos humanos foram incubados com três (3) concentrações não citotóxicas de cada um dos doze (12) produtos cosméticos e submetidos à radiação infravermelha A para posterior quantificação da concentração da enzima matriz metaloproteinase 1 via ensaio imunoenzimático. Nossos resultados corroboram estudos prévios da literatura e mostram um aumento na concentração de matriz metaloproteinase 1 nas culturas celulares de fibroblastos somente expostos à radiação infravermelha A. Os doze (12) produtos cosméticos apresentaram reduções significativas na concentração de matriz metaloproteinase 1 em relação ao grupo somente irradiado em pelo menos uma das concentrações não citotóxicas analisadas. Os resultados obtidos permitem inferir que todos os produtos cosméticos avaliados exerceram um efeito protetor contra o aumento na síntese de matriz metaloproteinase 1 induzida pela radiação infravermelha A.

28th IFSCC Congress (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists); Paris, October 27-28, 2014. Costa A, Eberlin S, Polettini AJ, Pereira AFC, Dolis E, Torloni LBO. Sensitive skin is a condition that exhibits reduced tolerance to frequent or prolonged use of cosmetics and toiletries. A modern concept of an interactive network between neuropeptide release from cutaneous nerves and the immune system has been established for this condition, and its manifestation seems to occur due to increased permeability of the stratum corneum. In response to noxious stimuli, substance P and calcitonin gene-related peptide lead to vasodilation and mast cell degranulation, resulting in a process called neurogenic inflammation. Besides neuroendocrine processes, the classical pathways of inflammation are also activated as a consequence of the release of cytokines, histamine, and eicosanoids. These, in turn, increase the sensitivity of nociceptors such as TRPV1 (vanilloid receptor channel of transient V1), inducing hyperalgesia and further production of inflammatory mediators. In this study, we evaluated the effects of an active ingredient on the production of neuropeptide substance P (SP); eicosanoids prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and leukotriene B4 (LTB4); histamine, TRPV1, and envelope proteins filaggrin and involucrin, using an in vitro model of human keratinocytes. Incubation of keratinocyte cultures with IL-1β promoted significant increases in the levels of SP, PGE2, LTB4, histamine, and TRPV1. Concomitant treatment of cell cultures with the active ingredient prevented the increase of all evaluated inflammatory mediators. In relation to SP, the active ingredient was able to reduce the levels by up to 5.6-fold compared to the IL-1β-stressed group. The active ingredient also reduced the synthesis of PGE2, LTB4, and histamine and decreased TRPV1 synthesis by up to 21.5%. Regarding the synthesis of envelope proteins, the active ingredient promoted increases of up to 3.4-fold and 2.3-fold for filaggrin and involucrin, respectively, compared to the control group. The physiopathology of sensitive skin consists of an inflammatory process resulting from the abnormal penetration of potentially irritating substances due to skin barrier dysfunction and changes in the production of local neuromediators. In this work, it was demonstrated that the active ingredient exerts a protective effect against the inflammatory reaction induced by IL-1β in human keratinocyte cultures. The results also showed the ability of the active ingredient to stimulate proteins involved in stratum corneum integrity. Taken together, these data suggest that the active ingredient might be considered an effective additive to skin care product formulations, contributing to the amelioration of the subjective neurosensory forms of discomfort.

28th IFSCC Congress (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists); Paris, October 27-28, 2014. Polettini AJ, Eberlin S, Costa A, Pereira AFC, Dolis E, Torloni LBO. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease in which hereditary, environmental, and immunological factors play a major role. Characterized by xerosis, eczematous lesions, and pruritus, AD changes between two phases: an acute Th2 predominant state with its cytokine pattern up-regulating IgE, and a chronic AD phase with Th1 cytokines, predominantly interferon-γ (IFN-γ) and interleukin-12 (IL-12), that down-regulate IgE. It is important to note that pruritus usually leads to an "itch-scratch" cycle that may compromise the epidermal barrier, dermis architecture, and function, resulting in transepidermal water loss and defective wound healing. The wound signature of AD is the proliferation of progenitor cells leading to epidermal hyperplasia, and tissue remodeling resulting in the development of spongiosis. In this study, we evaluated the anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties of a cosmetic product through quantification of IFN-γ, interleukin-12, and TGF-β using an ex vivo model of human skin. We also assessed wound healing ability by measurement of transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β) and cell migration using an in vitro model of human fibroblast culture. The synthesis of IL-12, IFN-γ, and TGF-β were measured using human skin explants obtained from plastic surgery. This study was carried out with the approval of the Ethics Committee. Incubation of skin explants with IL-1β promoted increases of 42.2% in the production of IFN-γ. Concurrent treatment of skin explants with the test product prevented the increase of inflammatory cytokines, reaching up to a 48.5% reduction compared to the IL-1β-stressed group. IL-1β stimulation did not produce increases in the amount of IL-12; however, the test product reduced the synthesis of this cytokine to undetectable levels compared to the basal control group. The synthesis of TGF-β was significantly decreased by the addition of IL-1β in cultured skin ex vivo. Conversely, the test product was able to promote a 1.9-fold increase in the synthesis of TGF-β when compared to the IL-1β-stressed group. The increase in the production of this growth factor corroborates the results obtained in the cell migration assay, where the test product was able to increase cell migration compared to the control group. After 48 hours, the scratch was completely filled, similarly to the group stimulated with TGF-β. AD is associated with hyperresponsiveness of lymphocytes to allergens. In acute AD, only Th2-type lymphocytes are activated, whereas in more chronic forms of AD, the activity of both Th1- and Th2-type lymphocytes increases. Th1 cytokines IL-12 and IFN-γ are present in the chronic phase of AD and are responsible for the perpetuation of the inflammatory state, culminating in connective tissue damage. A third group of cytokines, which includes TGF-β1 and IL-10, have general immunosuppressive activity, blocking both Th1- and Th2-type cytokine activity. In this work, it was demonstrated that the test product exerts a protective effect against inflammatory and immunological imbalance induced by IL-1β in human skin explants. The results also showed the ability of the test product to stimulate TGF-β1 and fibroblast migration, both involved in the wound healing process. Taken together, these data suggest that the test product might be considered an effective skin care formulation for atopic skin.

28th IFSCC Congress (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists); Paris, October 27-28, 2014. Eberlin S, Polettini AJ, Costa A, Pereira AFC, Weisz LTM, Lage R. Numerous biochemical reactions take place during the transition from the basal layer to the stratum corneum (SC), including the synthesis of specific basal (K5 and K14) and suprabasal (K1 and K10) keratins and cornified envelope-associated proteins in the keratinocytes. The epidermal differentiation complex (EDC) is constituted through cross-linking of involucrin, envoplakin, loricrin, profilaggrin, among others, on the intracellular surface of the plasma membrane in the upper spinous and granular layers of the epidermis. Studies have shown that variation in EDC results in the pathogenesis of at least three common skin disorders: ichthyosis vulgaris (IC), atopic dermatitis (AD), and psoriasis. In this study, we evaluated the effects of moisturizing lotions and antiperspirants on the production of envelope proteins filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin, and keratins 10 and 14, using an in vitro model of human keratinocytes. The test products, including antiperspirant 1 (At-1), antiperspirant 2 (At-2), lotion 1 (Lo-1), and lotion 2 (Lo-2), were composed of different compounds from vegetable origin. Incubation of keratinocyte cultures with Lo-1, Lo-2, At-1, and At-2 promoted significant increases in the synthesis of envelope proteins filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin. Considering that more pronounced biological effects were elicited by Lo-2 treatment, which significantly increased the levels of all envelope proteins, we also evaluated its ability to stimulate the production of basal (K14) and suprabasal (K10) keratins. A sharp rise in the production of keratin 10 was elicited by Lo-2, reaching up to 2.4-fold in relation to the control group. Similarly, Lo-2 also provided an increase of up to 54% in the synthesis of keratin 14. The water content of the SC and skin surface lipids are important factors in the appearance and function of the skin barrier. Traditional moisturizing ingredients are known to decelerate the loss of skin humidity, increase hydration of the SC, and improve the physical and chemical properties of the skin surface, making it moist, smooth, and soft. However, most of the products claimed for skin moisturizing produce an immediate and transient effect, which is not enough to relieve the discomfort caused by eczema. Thus, optimized skin care cosmetics should be developed to supply a proper moisturizing effect while also being capable of balancing the synthesis of skin barrier proteins. In this study, we evaluated the ability of moisturizing cosmetics to promote the production of proteins involved in SC turnover and integrity. Moisturizing lotions and antiperspirants increased the levels of all proteins evaluated. The results indicate a biological activity of these skin care products in promoting cellular hydration and skin barrier integrity.

23rd EADV Congress (European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology); Amsterdam, October 8-12, 2014. Polettini AJ, Eberlin S, Clerici SP, Pereira AFC, Weisz LTM, Barbosa AS, Lage R, Costa A. Numerous biochemical reactions take place during the transition from the basal layer to the stratum corneum (SC), including the synthesis of keratins and cornified envelope-associated proteins. The epidermal differentiation complex (EDC) is constituted through cross-linking of involucrin, loricrin, profilaggrin, among others, on the intracellular surface of the plasma membrane in the upper spinous and granular layers of the epidermis. Studies have shown that variation in EDC results in the pathogenesis of at least three common skin disorders: ichthyosis vulgaris, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis. In this study, we evaluated the effects of a moisturizing cosmetic (MC) on the production of some envelope proteins and keratins, using an in vitro model of human keratinocyte cultures. Incubation of keratinocytes (KC) with MC promoted significant increases in the synthesis of envelope proteins filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin. We also evaluated the ability of MC to stimulate the production of keratins K10 and K14. A significant rise of 35.1% and 23.7% was elicited in the production of keratin 10 and 14, respectively, in relation to the control group. Both the water content of the SC and skin surface lipids are important factors in the appearance and function of the skin barrier. Optimized skin care cosmetics should be developed to provide a proper moisturizing effect while also being capable of balancing the synthesis of skin barrier proteins. In this study, we demonstrated the ability of a moisturizing cosmetic to increase the levels of all proteins evaluated. The results indicate a biological activity of this skin care product in the promotion of skin barrier integrity.

23rd EADV Congress (European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology); Amsterdam, October 8-12, 2014. Clerici SP, Eberlin S, Polettini AJ, Pereira AFC, Dolis E, Cascais LC, Lage R, Torloni LBO, Costa A. Autophagy is an evolutionarily conserved process in eukaryotic cells for the degradation and recycling of long-lived proteins and cytoplasmic organelles. Autophagy has a survival and cytoprotective function and can be activated by various stress stimuli, including nutrient starvation and DNA damage triggered by chemical substances, reactive oxygen species, and ionizing radiation. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces DNA damage, autophagy, and apoptosis upon prolonged exposure. A physiological event like aging or deleterious events like UV radiation induces oxidation and aggregate formation of oxidized proteins. Lipofuscin is one of these aggregates and is considered a biological marker of senescence. In this study, we evaluated the protective effect of a sunscreen cosmetic product (SC) against UVA-induced autophagy using Sudan Black B (SBB), a specific stain for lipofuscin, with an in vitro model of human fibroblasts. UVA-induced autophagy can be measured by the presence of visible perinuclear and cytoplasmic aggregates of lipofuscin in HFF-1 cells stained with SBB, appearing as dark blue-black granules, compared to the control group. Concomitant incubation of HFF-1 with SC promoted a clear reduction in lipofuscin accumulation, making the cells acquire the same characteristics as the control group. Considering the reduced lipofuscin formation in fibroblast cultures treated with SC, we suggest a possible effect of this product on the optimization of the protein recycling process, culminating in a reduction in the accumulation of oxidized proteins. Studies are in progress in our laboratory to investigate additional mechanisms underlying the autophagy process, as well as the synthesis of proteasome and MAP1LC3.