Articles et publications

Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 83(6) Supplement 1, AB175, 2020. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2020.06.790 Liliana Bechelli de Oliveira Torloni, Lara Lopes Facó Yokoya, Erida Aparecida Pinto Magaton, Luciana Gimenez, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin Premature skin aging is mainly attributed to solar radiation and air pollution. Harmful effects promoted by these extrinsic factors include oxidative stress and antioxidant depletion, disturbance of the skin barrier and extracellular matrix, loss of elasticity and firmness, hyperpigmentation, among others. In this study, we evaluated the preclinical efficacy of an active complex (AC), composed of Lespedeza Capitata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, and Acrylic Acid/Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, against damages caused by infrared-A (IRA) and visible light (VL) radiations, as well as exposure to heavy metals (HM), using human cell cultures. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes were incubated with 3 non-cytotoxic concentrations of AC and subjected to IRA, VL, or HM exposition, for later quantification of biomarkers involved in cutaneous photoaging. In relation to IRA protection, AC demonstrated a prophylactic effect against the exacerbated increase in matrix metalloproteinase-1 synthesis, resulting in the preservation of collagen, which is a fundamental structure for tissue support. Regarding protection against VL, particularly in the blue light spectrum, AC has the ability to prevent opsin-3 decay, thereby inhibiting marked activation of the melanocortin receptor and preventing the increase of melanogenesis. Protection against air pollution was performed on cell cultures incubated with a heavy metal pool. The results showed that AC prevents the cellular internalization of metals, indicating a possible chelating action. Taken together, these results reveal a potential use of AC as a booster in skin care formulations aiming to prevent the effects of daily stress that skin is exposed to.

29th EADV Virtual Congress (European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology), 29-31 October, 2020. Mamy Honda Igarashi, Sheila Gomes da Silva, Maurizio Mercuri, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin. Glycolic acid (GA) is the most commonly alpha-hydroxy acid peel used in dermatological practice. GA has several indications, such as acne, acne scars, melasma, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, photoaging, and seborrhea. GA targets the corneosome by enhancing breakdown and decreasing cohesiveness, causing desquamation. In addition to this keratolytic action, GA has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. The nanoencapsulation of active ingredients is a very promising approach to the development of nanocosmetics and nanomedicine. Modern encapsulation methods protect against premature degradation, increase efficiency, specificity and targeting capacity, in addition to reducing the toxicity associated with active ingredient. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of two cosmetic formulations containing free and nanoencapsulated GA on epidermal and dermal thickness and collagen production. Human skin explants, obtained from elective plastic surgery, were treated with cosmetic formulations containing free (GA-F) and nanoencapsulated (GA-N) glycolic acid for a period of 72 hours. Explants were submitted to histological procedures for immunofluorescence of procollagen type I and to measure the thickness of the epidermis and papillary dermis using hematoxylin-eosin staining. Skin cultures treated with the formulation containing GA-N showed a greater number of dermal papillae as well as greater amplitude of them, when compared to the control group. This result is corroborated by the measurement of the thickness of the epidermis and papillary dermis, which presented increases of 34.64% and 44.59%, respectively, in relation to the control group (P<0.001). In contrast, the formulation containing GA-F, in addition to not changing the thickness of the epidermis, promoted a significant decrease in the thickness of the papillary dermis. In line with these results observed in the dermis, the formulation containing GA-N was able to significantly stimulate the production of procollagen type I by 47.13% (P<0.01), when compared to baseline control. On the other hand, the formulation containing GA-F did not promote changes in the synthesis of type I procollagen. The results on the synthesis of type I procollagen and thickness of the epidermis and papillary dermis demonstrated that the nanoencapsulation of GA presents superior and statistically significant results in comparison to the free form. These data allow us to infer that this nanocosmetic formulation has a beneficial effect on fundamental structures supporting the skin tissue, whose impairment contributes to the premature aging process.

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2020 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13815 Mamy Honda Igarashi, Sheila Gomes da Silva, Maurizio Mercuri, Flávia Macedo de Oliviera Neves Zuardi, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin. Mechanisms involved in hair metabolism are diverse and the availability of ingredients that normalize dysfunctions or mitigate the effects of extrinsic stress suffered daily are greatly desired by consumers to improve the aesthetic appearance of hair. In this work, we carried out a preclinical exploratory approach to evaluate the effects of a complex of nanoencapsulated active ingredients (AcPi), as well as a cosmetic formulation containing AcPi (ShPi and HtPi) in mechanisms involving hair loss and follicular aging. Human hair follicle dermal papilla cells and human scalp culture were treated with AcPi, ShPi or HtPi and stimulated with UV radiation or testosterone for further measurement of mitochondrial biogenesis, reactive oxygen species (ROS), B-catenin, dyhidrotestosterone (DHT), collagen XVIIa1 (COL17A1) and cutaneous permeation. Our results demonstrated that AcPi prevents oxidative stress and balances mitochondrial activity disturbed by exposure to UV radiation. AcPi also promoted an enrichment of WNT/B-catenin signaling pathway, stimulating hair growth and lengthening the anagen phase of hair cycle. ShPi and HtPi were able to prevent hair aging, minimizing the excessive degradation of COL17A1 in hair follicle exposed to UV radiation, in addition to controlling androgenic metabolism by reducing DHT production. The integral effects of AcPi have not been completely elucidated, however, these results, associated with clinical evidences, allow us to infer that this ingredient prevents follicular aging, miniaturization and consequently hair loss by mechanisms involving energetic homeostasis maintenance, antioxidant and anti-androgenic actions.

American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting AAD, Denver-CO, USA. March 20th-24th, 2020. Liliana Bechelli de Oliveira Torloni, Lara Lopes Facó Yokoya, Erida Aparecida Pinto Magaton, Luciana Gimenez, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin. Premature skin aging is mainly attributed to solar radiation and air pollution. Harmful effects promoted by these extrinsic factors include oxidative stress and antioxidant depletion, disturbance of skin barrier and extracellular matrix, loss of elasticity and firmness, hyperpigmentation, among others. In this study, we evaluate the preclinical efficacy of an active complex (AC), composed of Lespedeza Capitata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, and Acrylic Acid/Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, against damages caused by infrared-A (IRA) and visible light (VL) radiations, as well as exposure to heavy metals (HM), using human cell cultures. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes were incubated with three non-cytotoxic concentrations of AC and subjected to IRA, VL, or HM exposure, for later quantification of biomarkers involved in cutaneous photoaging. Regarding IRA protection, AC demonstrated a prophylactic effect against the exacerbated increase in matrix metalloproteinase-1 synthesis, resulting in the preservation of collagen, which is a fundamental structure for tissue support. Regarding protection against VL, particularly in the blue light spectrum, AC has the ability to prevent opsin-3 decay, thereby inhibiting marked activation of the melanocortin receptor and preventing the increase in melanogenesis. Protection against air pollution was performed on cell cultures incubated with a heavy metal pool. The results showed that AC prevents cellular internalization of metals, indicating a possible chelating action. Taken together, these results reveal a potential use of AC as a booster in skin care formulations aiming to prevent the effects of daily stress that skin is exposed to.

American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting AAD, Denver-CO, USA. March 20th-24th, 2020. Samara Eberlin, Gustavo Facchini, Michelle Sabrina da Silva, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Adilson Costa. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronically relapsing inflammatory disease associated with genetic predisposition and environmental factors. Altered immune response and skin barrier dysfunction are mainly responsible for skin lesion onset characterized by severe itching. Affected patients are highly sensitized to house dust mite, such as Dermatophagoides farinae (DF), which is considered a common environmental allergen causing AD. Among the abnormalities in the epidermal barrier, changes in lipid profile of stratum corneum are highlighted, with the most notable feature being the decrease in ceramide levels. Additionally, there is a reduction in the levels of envelope proteins filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin. An ex vivo AD model was developed using skin fragments obtained from elective plastic surgery and submitted to epidermal barrier disruption with 4% sodium lauryl sulfate. Complementary, the skin was exposed to DF extract for two consecutive days. Skin fragments were collected, fixed, and cryopreserved for immunofluorescence evaluation of filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin, and sphingomyelin synthase. Our results revealed that the human experimental AD model was able to satisfactorily mimic skin characteristics of AD by significantly reducing filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin labeling when compared to the control group. Labeling for sphingomyelin synthase - which is directly related to ceramide synthesis, also dropped considerably. Fragments of ex vivo human skin constitute the experimental model that most closely approximates the real conditions to evaluate the efficacy and safety of products applied topically. These findings strongly suggest that this model can be useful not only for elucidating AD pathogenesis but also for evaluating novel therapeutic agents.

32º Congresso Brasileiro de Cosmetologia (online), 03-06 Novembro, 2020. Mamy Honda Igarashi, Fabio Vasconcelos Figueiredo, Sheila Gomes da Silva, Maurizio Mercuri, Suelma Natalie de Melo Oliveira, Ketterlly Inaisder de Lima, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Samara Eberlin. O envelhecimento prematuro da pele é um processo multifatorial que tem como mecanismo primordial a produção excessiva de radicais livres, devido à exposição crônica às diversas agressões externas, particularmente a radiação solar. Os efeitos nocivos promovidos por esses fatores extrínsecos incluem: estresse oxidativo e depleção de antioxidantes, distúrbios da barreira cutânea e da matriz extracelular, perda de elasticidade e firmeza, hiperpigmentação, entre outros. Avaliação pré-clínica dos efeitos antienvelhecimento de uma formulação cosmética por meio da mensuração de marcadores associados à ação antioxidante, proliferação e renovação epidérmica e sustentação dérmica, utilizando um modelo experimental de cultura de pele humana ex vivo. Fragmentos de pele humana obtidos de cirurgia plástica eletiva foram tratados com a formulação cosmética (YvCg) por 72 horas e expostos à radiação UV para posterior imunomarcação e semi-quantificação de Ki67, pró-colágeno tipo I e elastina. Para avaliação da ação antioxidante, os fragmentos de pele foram marcados para semi-quantificação de radicais livres utilizando a sonda fluorescente DCFH-DA (Dichloro-dihydro-fluorescein diacetate). Nossos resultados demonstraram que o produto YvCg promove um aumento significativo na intensidade de ki67, indicando proliferação e mitose dos queratinócitos, promovendo assim a renovação epidérmica e melhora na vitalidade da pele. O produto YvCg também aumentou a síntese de pró-colágeno tipo I e elastina, favorecendo a sustentação e elasticidade do tecido e minimizando os efeitos do envelhecimento, como o surgimento de rugas e flacidez. Adicionalmente, os resultados evidenciaram que o produto YvCg promoveu uma redução do estresse oxidativo da pele exercendo um efeito protetor contra o aumento excessivo da síntese de radicais livres, induzido pela exposição à radiação UV. Os resultados obtidos no estudo revelam que o produto YvCg previne os efeitos do envelhecimento precoce da pele. Os resultados obtidos revelam que o produto YvCg exerce um efeito antienvelhecimento e antioxidante, protegendo a pele dos efeitos deletérios da exposição à radiação UV. A formulação cosmética IvCg também promoveu uma ação na proliferação e renovação epidérmica, minimizando as alterações inestéticas provocadas pelo estresse diário que a pele é exposta.

Samara Eberlin, Michelle Sabrina da Silva, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Samir Eberlin, Adriano da Silva Pinheiro. Alternative to Laboratory Animals (2020), 48(1):10-22. DOI: 10.1177/0261192920914193 The development of alternative approaches for safety and efficacy testing that avoid the use of animals is a worldwide trend, which relies on the improvement of current models and tools so that they better reproduce human biology. Human skin from elective plastic surgery is a promising experimental model to test the effects of topically applied products. As the structure of native skin is maintained, including cell population (keratinocytes, melanocytes, Langerhans cells and fibroblasts) and dermal matrix (containing collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycans, etc.), it most closely matches the effects of substances on in vivo human skin. In this review, we present a collection of results that our group has generated over the last years, involving the use of human skin and scalp explants, demonstrating the feasibility of this model. The development of a test system with ex vivo skin explants, of standard size and thickness, and cultured at the air-liquid interface, can provide an important tool for understanding the mechanisms involved in several cutaneous disorders.

Elisete Isabel Crocco, Evellin Barbosa Bonifácio, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Michelle Sabrina da Silva, Ana Lucia Alves Tabarini Pinheiro, Paula Voltarelli Franco Avelar, Samara Eberlin Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020), 00:1-6. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13503 Excessive androgenesis in the skin promotes sebaceous hyperproduction which is the onset of acne vulgaris pathogenesis. Free fatty acids and lipids accumulation in the glandular infundibulum culminates in microbiota imbalance, triggering inflammatory response and follicular hyperkeratinization. The purpose of this work was to present an alternative cosmetic treatment for acne skin care, focusing on the prevention of sebaceous gland dysregulation. Insulin-stimulated human sebocytes were treated with non-cytotoxic concentrations of a DTRW cosmetic formulation. After 6 days of incubation, cell lysates were collected for testosterone, 5α-reductase and dihydrotestosterone (DHT) quantitation. In parallel, cells were stained with Oil Red O to measure sebum production. Human sebocytes were incubated with insulin to mimic a seborrheic microenvironment with overproduction of intracellular lipids and fatty acids. Concomitant incubation of cell cultures with DRTW was able to promote a 52.97% reduction in intracellular lipid content. The anti-androgenic properties of DRTW had been proved by the reductions of testosterone (−59.90%), 5α-reductase (−59.34%) and DHT (−55.98%) levels in sebocyte cultures also stimulated with insulin. The results indicate a promising action of DRTW cosmetic formulation in preventing the development of acne lesions by mechanisms involving the modulation of cutaneous androgenesis and consequently the control of sebum overproduction, considered one of the leading causes of acne.

Cosmetics & Toiletries (Brasil), Vol. 31, nov-dez 2019:18-28. Eberlin S, Silva MS, Facchini G, Silva GH, Pinheiro ALTA, Pinheiro AS. O entendimento do estado da arte de ensaios alternativos para substituir, refinar e reduzir o uso de animais em pesquisa é mandatório para o desenvolvimento científico e tecnológico do país. Este artigo descreve o panorama brasileiro da incorporação de abordagens alternativas para segurança de produtos destinados ao uso humano. The overview of alternative testing to replace, refine, and reduce the use of animals in research is mandatory for scientific and technological development of the country. This article describes the Brazilian context in the incorporation of alternative approaches to safety assessments of products intended for human use.

American Association of Pharmaceutical Scientists (AAPS) PharmSciTech 2019 20:9. DOI: 10.1208/s12249-018-1217-7 Letícia Caramori Cefali, Janaína Artem Ataide, Samara Eberlin, Fernanda Cristina da Silva Gonçalves, Ana Rita Fernandes, Joana Marto, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Mary Ann Foglio, Priscila Gava Mazzola, Eliana Barbosa Souto. The aim of the study was to determine the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and the photostability profile of a topical formulation composed of nanoparticles loaded with vegetable extracts and to assess its physicochemical properties. Chitosan/tripolyphosphate (TPP) nanoparticles loaded with flavonoids-enriched vegetable extracts (Ginkgo biloba L., Dimorphandra mollis Benth, Ruta graveolens, and Vitis vinifera L.) were produced and characterized for their morphology, mean particle size, zeta potential, and encapsulation efficiency. A final topical formulation was obtained by dispersing chitosan/TPP nanoparticles in an o/w emulsion. Results showed that nanoparticles dispersion exhibited yellowish color, spherical shape, and uniform appearance. Extract-loaded chitosan/TPP nanoparticles showed a mean particle size of 557.11 ± 3.1 nm, polydispersity index of 0.39 ± 0.27, zeta potential of +11.54 ± 2.1 mV, and encapsulation efficiency of 75.89% of rutin. The recorded texture parameters confirm that the developed formulation is appropriate for skin application. The SPF obtained was 2.3 ± 0.4, with a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and 0.69 UVA/UVB ratio. The developed formulation exhibited photostability, allowing the release of flavonoids from nanoparticles while retaining rutin into the skin to a greater extent.

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2019), 00:1-7. DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12979 Andréia Feital Costa Pereira, Mamy Honda Igarashi, Maurizio Mercuri, Amanda Francielli Pereira, Ana Lucia Alves Tabarini Pinheiro, Michelle Sabrina da Silva, Gustavo Facchini, Samara Eberlin. Melanin plays an important role in protecting the skin against the harmful effects of solar radiation, but its abnormal accumulation may become an aesthetic problem, such as melasma and age spots. The aim of this study was to evaluate the antiangiogenic and whitening effects of a depigmentation formulation (BLTX) using an in vitro model of human cell and skin culture. Human fibroblasts, keratinocytes, or melanocytes were treated with BLTX and subjected to oxidative stress by UV radiation or inflammatory stress with IL-1β for quantification of melanin, tyrosinase, endothelin-1, PAR-2, VEGF, and iNOS. Fragments of human skin, from elective plastic surgery, were treated with BLTX and subjected to histological evaluation with hematoxylin/eosin associated with Fontana-Masson technique for melanin view. A parametric method, the one-way analysis of variance (Anova) followed by the Bonferroni test, was used to compare data among all groups. The results demonstrated that BLTX promotes a reduction in VEGF and iNOS protein synthesis in cultured dermal fibroblasts, indicating an antiangiogenic property. In relation to whitening effect, BLTX was able to reduce the production of melanin in both systems, melanocytes and human skin cultures. The depigmenting action was also revealed by decreasing the levels of endothelin-1, PAR-2, and activity of tyrosinase, when compared to cultures exposed to UV radiation. The results allow us to infer that BLTX presents an antiangiogenic effect indicating a role in the vascular component of melasma. Furthermore, the whitening property observed reinforces its use in the prevention and treatment of melasma.

Surgical and Cosmetic Dermatology (2019), 11(2):121-5. DOI: 10.5935/scd1984-8773.20191121319 Brenno Augusto Seabra de Mello Netto1, MD; José Marcelo Corassa1, MD; Gustavo Facchini2, PhD; Michelle Sabrina da Silva2, PhD; Samara Eberlin2, PhD. A escleroterapia é o método mais utilizado para o tratamento de varizes dos membros inferiores tendo como complicação mais comum o aparecimento de manchas hipercromáticas na região do tratamento. O Pycnogenol® é conhecido há muito tempo como um flebotônico, anti-inflamatório e despigmentante da pele. Estudos já comprovaram a eficácia deste fármaco na prevenção e no tratamento da hiperpigmentação pós-inflamatória. Avaliar a eficácia do extrato de Pinus pinaster (Pycnogenol®; EPP) na prevenção de depósitos de hemossiderina em cultura de pele humana submetidos a estresse inflamatório. Fragmentos de pele humana foram estimulados com interleucina 1 alfa (IL-1α) para indução de uma resposta inflamatória e, concomitantemente, tratados com EPP para posterior avaliação histológica e semi-quantificação de hemossiderina. A avaliação histológica dos fragmentos de pele expostos à IL-1α revelaram uma densidade de hemossiderina 26,6% maior em comparação ao grupo controle. Por outro lado, os fragmentos de pele incubados concomitantemente com EPP mostraram reduções significativas na deposição de hemossiderina quando comparados ao grupo somente expostos ao microambiente inflamatório. Os resultados apresentados neste estudo apontam para um importante efeito do EPP (Pycnogenol®) na prevenção do acúmulo de hemossiderina originado pelo estresse inflamatório semelhante ao processo pós-escleroterapia.

IFSCC Magazine (2019), 22(2):101-8 ISSN# 1520-4561 Gustavo Facchini, Michelle Sabrina da Silva, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, André Schwambach Vieira, Samir Eberlin, Adriano da Silva Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin Skin photoaging has been attributed to other spectra of solar radiation such as infrared A (IRA). An alternative method to study these effects is the use of skin explants obtained from plastic surgery, which reflects more accurately a real condition. The aim of this study was to investigate the modulation of genes involved with functional alterations promoted by IRA radiation in human skin explants, through large-scale gene expression using mRNA sequencing (RNA-seq - next generation sequencing). The results showed that IRA radiation is able to modulate genes correlated with neoplasms, such as squamous cell neoplasia and Merkel cell carcinoma. Additionally, hyperalgesia, irritant contact dermatitis and psoriasis presented significant enrichment. Important changes are associated with an increase in inflammatory profile, immune response, formation of inflammassome and exacerbation of oxidative stress. In addition, genes that directly impact the formation of stratum corneum and structure of cutaneous epidermis were also compromised. The results obtained reveal different ways to better understand the impact of IRA radiation on human skin, allowing the development of more accurately evaluation methods to check the effectiveness of active ingredients and products to protect skin from deleterious effects of IRA radiation.

Letícia Caramori Cefali, Janaína Artem Ataide, Ana Rita Fernandes, Ilza Maria de Oliveira Sousa, Fernanda Cristina da Silva Gonçalves, Samara Eberlin, José Luis Dávila, Angela Faustino Jozala, Marco Vinicius Chaud, Elena Sanchez-Lopez, Joana Marto, Marcos Akira d’Ávila, Helena Margarida Ribeiro, Mary Ann Foglio, Eliana Barbosa Souto, Priscila Gava Mazzola. Antioxidants (2019), 8:443 DOI: 10.3390/antiox8100443 The aim of this study was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant effect, containing a blend of flavonoid-enriched plant extracts. In vitro sun protection factor, antioxidant activity, skin irritation, photostability, cutaneous permeation, and retention of flavonoids were evaluated. Thermodynamically stable emulsions were obtained and tested for sensorial analysis after loading the blend of extracts. The selected emulsion was stable when stored at low temperatures (5ºC), for which after 120 days the concentration of quercetin and rutin were above their limit of quantification, i.e., 2.8 ± 0.39 µg/mL and 30.39 ± 0.39 µg/mL, respectively. Spreadability, low rupture strength, and adhesiveness were shown to be similar to a conventional topical product. Higher brittleness, pseudo-plastic, and viscoelastic behaviors were also recorded for the developed phytocosmetic sunscreen. The product presented a critical wavelength of 387.0 nm and ultraviolet rays A and B (UVA/UVB) rate of 0.78, confirming that the developed formulation shows capacity for UVA/UVB protection, protecting skin against damages caused by Ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Rutin was shown to permeate the skin barrier and was also quantified in the stratum corneum (3.27 ± 1.92 µg/mL) by tape stripping and retention test (114.68 ± 8.70 µg/mL). The developed flavonoid-enriched phytocosmetic was shown to be non-irritant to skin by an in vitro assay. Our results confirm the antioxidant activity, sun protection, and physical properties of the developed phytocosmetic for topical application.

XXI Brazilian Congress of Toxicology, Águas de Lindóia, Brazil 28-31 October, 2019. Silva, Michelle S.; Facchini, Gustavo; Silva, Gustavo H.; Picon, Francini C.; Pinheiro, Ana L. T. A.; Pinheiro, Adriano S.; Eberlin, Samara. Cell cultures are essential tools for the development of alternative methods to the use of animals to evaluate the safety of products intended for human use. Many toxic xenobiotics to the respiratory tract not only cause cell death, but also induce pro-inflammatory responses that may potentiate airway injury. Thus, to assess the inhalation toxicity of a product, it is important to have an integrated view of its role in inflammation and apoptosis using a test system that mimics respiratory tract conditions. In this study, we developed an experimental model in an air-liquid lung cell interface culture to evaluate the inhalation toxicity potential of the volatile components from the hair straightening procedure. Pulmonary fibroblasts cultured in an air-liquid interface were exposed in a controlled atmosphere during the application of hair straighteners and formaldehyde (15%) on hair tresses. After the procedure, the cells were maintained in an incubator for further cellular viability evaluation (MTT) and assessment of mediators Caspase 3/7 and SERCA2. The results showed that the exposure of the cultures to the straightening treatment promoted cell death - activation of Caspase 3/7 (21.17%, P<0.05) and MTT (11.44%, P<0.01) and reduction of SERCA2 (20.95%, P<0.01) after 1 hour of incubation, but after 24 hours these values were reestablished. On the other hand, the exposure of cell cultures to 15% formalin vapor significantly and irreversibly increased cell death and inflammatory response compared to the baseline group. We observed a decrease in viability by 74.11% and 76.82% (P<0.001) by MTT technique, an increase of 3.14 and 4.18-fold in Caspase 3/7 activation, and a reduction of SERCA2 by 20.95% and 18.20% (P<0.01), after 1 and 24 hours, respectively. The experimental methodology presented shows an important advance in the evaluation of cosmetic toxicology, allowing the development of tools to reduce, replace, and/or refine the use of experimental animals. Moreover, unlike animal inhalation toxicity models, where the observed parameter is often just death, the air-liquid interface model proposed in the present study allows a broader view of the effects of hair straightening on the respiratory tract, considering even the impacts of the inflammatory response.