Articles et publications

Introdução Frequentes são os lançamentos de produtos cosméticos com nomenclatura ácido, utilizados tanto no tratamento dérmico quanto das fibras capilares. Visando promover a reparação hídrica e diminuição da porosidade dos fios pelo fechamento das camadas cuticulares, esses produtos têm invadido as prateleiras dos consumidores. O ácido hialurônico (AH), um polissacarídeo de estrutura tridimensional, é altamente hidrofílico formando ligações de hidrogênio com a água, criando uma rede tridimensional de hidrogel até 1000 vezes expandida. Isso devido aos grupos funcionais -COOH e OH, que dispõem alta quantidade de elétrons disponíveis para a formação de ligações [1]. O ácido cítrico (AC) possui grupos altamente doadores de elétrons (H+) que propiciam a troca de íons e interação de ligações com outras moléculas seja dentro de formulações ou a níveis teciduais [2]. O presente estudo analisou o comportamento das fibras capilares e o estrato córneo submetidos a aplicações de soluções de AH e AC, utilizando diferentes técnicas que avaliam propriedades da matriz interna da fibra capilar, além da avaliação de irritabilidade dérmica.

Abstract Human hair is a mainly keratin structure that packages itself in a highly complex way. This high complexity leaves free spaces (vacancies) that allow substances to permeate the hair fiber. The permeation is influenced by different factors including pH of the environment, hair porosity, and quality of the hair. The study of the permeation of molecules through the hair fiber to the scalp is important for the development of cosmetic products with actives that could potentially have efficacy no just on the fiber but on the scalp. On this study scalp explants from rhytidectomy with hair shafts of 6 cm were cut in pieces with 6mm diameter. The hair tips were submersed in an aqueous solution of fluorescent dye eosin at 3 different times. After that, the skin explants were included on TOC compound and cut with cryotome. The cuts were analyzed by fluorescence microscopy to understand if the dye was able to migrates to the scalp. The results show migration of the fluorescent dye in all the times tested. The presence of fluorescent molecules on the skin cuts means that the actives absorbed on hair fiber are capable of achieving the hair bulb and in contact time higher than 30 min they can even reach the inner structures of the scalp. Keywords: Hair Permeation, pH, Hair Porosity, Hair Evaluation, Scalp.

Skin homeostasis requires a balance between free radical production and natural antioxidant defense. MMPs Collagen breakdown Francisqueti-Ferron FV, Ferron AJT, Garcia JL, et al. Int J Mol Sci. 2019;20(13):3208. • Oxidative process is dynamic and rapid restoration mechanisms are necessary to maintain the structural integrity of the skin. • NRF2 (Nuclear Factor Erythroid 2-related factor 2) is considered the key regulator antioxidant response, being responsible for induce the expression of genes encoding proteins and antioxidant enzymes, playing an important mechanism for cell protection and survival. • Among NRF2 target genes are superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), glutathione peroxidase (GPx).

Introdução Frequentes são os lançamentos de produtos cosméticos com nomenclatura ácido, utilizados tanto no tratamento dérmico quanto das fibras capilares. Visando promover a reparação hídrica e diminuição da porosidade dos fios pelo fechamento das camadas cuticulares, esses produtos têm invadido as prateleiras dos consumidores. O ácido hialurônico (AH), um polissacarídeo de estrutura tridimensional, é altamente hidrofílico formando ligações de hidrogênio com a água, criando uma rede tridimensional de hidrogel até 1000 vezes expandida. Isso devido aos grupos funcionais -COOH e OH, que dispõem alta quantidade de elétrons disponíveis para a formação de ligações [1]. O ácido cítrico (AC) possui grupos altamente doadores de elétrons (H+) que propiciam a troca de íons e interação de ligações com outras moléculas seja dentro de formulações ou a níveis teciduais [2]. O presente estudo analisou o comportamento das fibras capilares e o estrato córneo submetidos a aplicações de soluções de AH e AC, utilizando diferentes técnicas que avaliam propriedades da matriz interna da fibra capilar, além da avaliação de irritabilidade dérmica.

RESUMO O brilho e a cor dos cabelos estão entre os atributos mais importantes de eficiência de produtos cosméticos percebidos pelo consumidor. Foram avaliados três tipos de mechas de cabelos: caucasianos naturais, duplamente descoloridas e mechas tingidas e submetidas a 30 lavagens. Mediu-se a reflexão especular e a espectrometria de cor basal e após dois tipos diferentes de tratamento com produtos cosméticos: linha completa (shampoo, condicionador e máscara) e produtos sem enxague (creme para pentear e óleo). Para as medidas de cor utiliza-se o espectrofotômetro Byk-Gardner Spectro-Guide Sphere Gloss spectrophotometer e sistema de cor CIE-L*a*b* (CIE94) e para as medidas de brilho é utilizado o equipamento Glossmeter (BYK Gardner®) com ângulo de incidência fixo de 85°. Após análise estatística dos valores de brilho Basais e Finais, calculou-se o Fator de Realce da cor dos cabelos através da interpolação dos valores médios de brilho e o parâmetro de cor, pôde-se comprovar a melhora proporcionada pela aplicação de todos os tratamentos cosméticos em todos os tipos de cabelos testados. Sendo observado a maior variação significativa do Fator de Realce dos cabelos principalmente em cabelos que sofreram agressões (duplamente descoloridos e os tingidos e submetidos a 30 lavagens sucessivas com shampoo sem agente condicionantes) quando tratados com produtos não rinsáveis. Quanto maior o valor obtido para o Fator de realce da cor dos cabelos, mais radiante/ intensa a cor dos cabelos após o tratamento cosmético. Um aumento significativo nesses atributos indica uma intensificação da cor e do brilho, deixando-os esteticamente mais bonitos. Palavras-chave: Realce da Cor, Cabelos, Reflexão Especular, Colorimetria.

Dentre os diversos métodos de análises de cabelos, os microscópicos eletrônicos de varredura, ganham destaque pela facilidade de visualização das estruturas, as quais, ao serem avaliadas com softwares permitem a quantificação dos danos em cabelos expostos a agentes estressores distintos, contribuindo significativamente, em inúmeros estudos. A inclusão de fios de cabelos para cortes histológicos apresenta desafios pois é imprescindível a obtenção de bons cortes, que não danifiquem a estrutura interna do fio A escolha das resinas e navalhas de alto perfil, junto com o processo de inclusão são determinantes neste contexto. Neste trabalho foi avaliada a influência do tipo de resina de inclusão na qualidade de cortes transversais de cabelo (naturais e descoloridos), os quais foram incluídos em diferentes resinas: Epóxi; Poliéster historesina e composto O.C.T. Os cortes foram realizados com navalha de alto perfil e em espessuras de 10, 8 e 6µm. Os resultados obtidos demonstraram que, a resina poliéster não apresentou características aptas para cortes histológicos, pois ao realizar os cortes, os mesmo se enroscaram impedindo a sua utilização; já a resina epóxi ao ser cortada não apresentou boa adesividade com o vidro e nos cortes, ao serem levados ao microscópio óptico, foram observados espaços vazios indicando que alguns cabelos foram removidos durante a microtomia (pouca aderência entre a resina e o cabelo); além disto, os cabelos que foram observados apresentaram “fraturas” na seção transversal impedindo a visualização das estruturas internas do fio. Por outro lado, as inclusões em historesina apresentaram maior facilidade no corte, com boa adesividade à lâmina de vidro e ao cabelo, porém, resultando novamente em imagens com “fraturas” em ambos tipos de cabelos. Finalmente a inclusão no composto O.C.T gerou cortes de superfície regular e uniforme, com ausência total de “fraturas” nos cabelos naturais e poucas regiões com fragmentações nos cabelos descoloridos. Palavras-chave: histologia; estrutura capilar; secção transversal; MEV.

Skin homeostasis requires a balance between free radical production and natural antioxidant defense. Since this oxidative process is dynamic, rapid restoration mechanisms are necessary to maintain the structural integrity of the skin. This study aimed to clinically evaluate the effects of a skincare formulation (F4565.33367.200.1) on the production of NRF2 (nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2), SOD (superoxide dismutase), CAT (catalase), GPx (glutathione peroxi dase) and pCOL1 (type I procollagen) in skin biopsies by immunofluorescence analysis. F4565.33367.200.1 was composed by ferulic acid, tocoferol, ascorbic acid and extracts of Inga edulis, Theobroma cacau and Casearia sylvestris. During 28 days, the formulation wasappliedtotherightforearmofresearchparticipants (n¼9, 4665y, ethics committee approval n o5.039.071). Left forearm was considered a control site. Skin biopsies (2mm punch), collected on days T0, T7, T14 and T28 of home use, were immunostained with specific antibodies against the biomarkers. Images were obtained and fluorescence intensity was quantified using ImageJ software. The results demonstrated that, in comparison with control site, F4565.33367.200.1 promotes significant increase of pCOL1 (125.6%-T7; 146.5% T14; 129.2% T28), SOD (34.1%-T28), CAT (169.3%-T7; 99.9%-T14; 127.1%-T28) and GPX(66.1%-T7).Theformulation also promoted anincrease of 40.7%inNRF2 inT7, however not significant. Skin biopsies are invaluable tool in dermatology, offering numerous advantages including accurate research in pharmacology. Using this technique, we prove the antioxidant mechanisms of F4565.33367.200.1 increasing the availability of NRF2, SOD, CATand GPx, and consequentlypCOL1. These results make a valuable contribution to proving the benefits of this antiaging formulation, mitigating the daily oxidative damage to which the skin is exposed

Altern Lab Anim. 2024 Jan;52(1):60-68. doi: 10.1177/02611929231218378. Epub 2023 Dec 7. PMID: 38061994. Ávila RI, Fentem J, Villela I, Somlo D, Fusco Almeida AM, Mendes-Giannini MJS, Di Pietro Micali Canavez A, Bosquetti B, Catarino CM, Schuck DC, Valadares BN, Facchini G, Marigliani B, Migliorini Figueira AC, Hickson R, Leme DM, Tagliati C, de Souza LCR, Maria Engler SS, Gaspar Cordeiro LR, Koepp J, Granjeiro JM, de Mello Brandao H, Munk M, Antunes de Mattos K, Pedralli B, Siqueira Furtuoso Rodrigues MM, Stival AC, Andrade J, Brito LB, Marques Dos Santos TR, Leite J, Garcia da Silva AC, Valadares MC. The Brazilian National Network of Alternative Methods (RENAMA), which is linked to the Ministry of Science, Technology and Innovation, is currently comprised of 51 laboratories from CROs, academia, industry and government. RENAMA's aim is to develop and validate new approach methodologies (NAMs), as well as train researchers and disseminate information on their use — thus reducing Brazilian, and consequently Latin American, dependence on external technology. Moreover, it promotes the adoption of NAMs by educators and trained researchers, as well as the implementation of good laboratory practice (GLP) and the use of certified products. The RENAMA network started its activities in 2012, and was originally comprised of three central laboratories — the National Institute of Metrology, Quality and Technology (INMETRO); the National Institute of Quality Control in Health (INCQS); and the National Brazilian Biosciences Laboratory (LNBio) — and ten associated laboratories. In 2022, RENAMA celebrated its 10th anniversary, a milestone commemorated by the organisation of a meeting attended by different stakeholders, including the RENAMA-associated laboratories, academia, non-governmental organisations and industry. Ninety-six participants attended the meeting, held on 26 May 2022 in Balneário Camboriú, SC, Brazil, as part of the programme of the XXIII Brazilian Congress of Toxicology 2022. Significant moments of the RENAMA were remembered, and new goals and discussion themes were established. The lectures highlighted recent innovations in the toxicological sciences that have translated into the assessment of consumer product safety through the use of human-relevant NAMs instead of the use of existing animal-based approaches. The challenges and opportunities in accepting such practices for regulatory purposes were also presented and discussed.

35 Congresso Brasileiro de Cosmetologia, São Paulo, 13-15 Junho 2023 Angela Cristina Vargas Calle; Alzira Xavier Pinto Diniz; Nathana Cindy Barros Silva Ramos; Caroline Vieira Hercolino; Victoria Gonçalves; Jussarah Viana; Nelson Luis Perassinoto; Adriano Pinheiro. One of the main complaints from consumers regarding hair fiber is hair hydration, which is why various efforts have been made to verify if the application of cosmetic products to hair alters its water content. One of the techniques used to quantify this effect is differential scanning calorimetry - DSC. This technique allows the measurement of the enthalpy of water vaporization associated with the hair. In the traditional form, to perform the DSC test, a small sample of hair, which is considered representative of the entire sample, is placed in the equipment and subjected to a temperature variation between 25 and 180°C. Although the result is a good estimate of what happens in the hair as a whole, it assumes that the fiber is homogeneous from root to tip; however, the hair is a structure that is generated in the hair follicle and grows approximately 0.4mm per day, so that the hair that is closer to the tips is older than the hair near the root and therefore has been exposed to more accumulated damage. This information allows us to infer that little is known about the effect on the enthalpy of vaporization of cosmetic products along the hair. In this work, hair strands, after being treated with cosmetic products, were sectioned into 5 equal parts and each section was subjected to measurements of enthalpy of water vaporization by DSC. The DSC results were interpolated with images of the strands, taken after the application of the treatments, using a new software developed by our group. The software assigns a color for each enthalpy value on a scale of 100 to 300 mJ/mg, corresponding to blue for the value of 300 mJ/mg (more hydrated) and red for the value of 100 mJ/mg (less hydrated), generating a hydration map that reflects the statistical analyses. The methodology developed enables the quantification of the enthalpy of vaporization along the strand and allows easy visualization of the results obtained.

XXVI Congreso Latinoamericano e Ibérico de Químicos Cosméticos, Buenos Aires, 16-18 Abril 2023 Vargas Calle, Angela Cristina; Dini, Alzira; Ramos, Nathana Cindy; Hercolino, Caroline; Rangel Gubertoni, Julia; Gonçalves, Victoria; Pinheiro, Adriano; Perassinoto, Nelson Luis. La hidratación de las fibras capilares es actualmente una de las mayores preocupaciones de los consumidores y diversos productos son formulados con el objetivo de aumentar esta característica. La técnica de DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry) es comúnmente utilizada para validar la eficacia hidratante de productos cosméticos utilizando una pequeña muestra de la parte media del cabello. Este tipo de análisis supone que el comportamiento es homogéneo a lo largo de la fibra capilar, pero no se han realizado estudios que verifiquen esta suposición. En este ámbito, este estudio busca verificar si el efecto de protección de hidratación de productos cosméticos en cabellos humanos se da de forma homogénea y si este efecto está relacionado con la deposición de activos catiónicos en la superficie de la fibra. Para esto, mechas de cabello humano tratadas con 3 tipos de productos cosméticos fueron cortadas en 5 partes de igual longitud de la raíz hasta la punta y cada parte fue sometida a ensayos de DSC y de deposición de productos catiónicos la cual, fue medida con colorímetro utilizando el sistema CIElab 94 después de sumergir las mechas en una solución de colorante marcador rojo directo 80. Los resultados mostraron que existe una correlación entre la deposición de activos catiónicos en la fibra y la entalpía de vaporización de agua de las fibras de cabello y que el efecto hidratante conferido a las mechas de cabello es mayor cuando el producto está distribuido de forma homogénea sobre las fibras.

33rd IFSCC Congress 2023, Barcelona, 4-7 setembro 2023 - Poster Vargas Calle, Angela Cristina; Dini, Alzira; Ramos, Nathana Cindy; Hercolino, Caroline; Da Silva, Jussarah; Gonçalves, Victoria; Pinheiro, Adriano; Perassinoto, Nelson Luis In order to develop a methodology capable of mapping damage on hair surface, swatches of different levels of damage were treated with a solution of Rhodamine B and evaluated by Fluorescence Spectroscopy at 9 points along the hair swatch. With this data, a visual representation of the damage was reproduced over a swatch picture. After treating the swatches with Rhodamine B, the fluorescence was assessed. The results show that the natural swatches presented a lower fluorescence intensity than other groups. For the damaged groups, the fluorescence intensity increases with the number of bleaching processes. The new methodology was capable of differentiating the damage level caused by oxidative processes on hair swatches. The results were confirmed by the FTIR method, which is already well-established for measurements of cysteine bond degradation. Additionally, the data obtained were analyzed by new software developed by our group that helps to visualize the damage over the length of the hair swatch. This novel method could be useful during the formulation process and for claim substantiation.

35 Congresso Brasileiro de Cosmetologia, São Paulo, 13-15 Junho 2023-Poster Albarici, V. C.; Ramos, N. C. B. S; Dini, A. X. P.; Ferreira, M. M.; Hercolino, C. V.; Ribeiro, N. A.; Gonçalves, V. P.; Pinheiro, A. S. Introduction: Hair fiber surface condition is one of the attributes that is firstly identified by consumers upon touching hair. The friction reduction is directly linked, microscopically, to the increase in softness on the fibers surface, which includes a decrease of roughness and the closure of cuticular layers. Macroscopically, it is also necessary that a lower degree of aggregation and interaction exist between fibers. Objective: The purpose was to assess the macro and microscopic hair surface characteristics of different ethnical origins utilizing the techniques of microscopy, combability and sound analysis. Materials and Methods: Natural hair tresses of straight, wavy, curly and kinky curvatures were used. The scanning electronic microscopy was realized on 5 fibers of each hair type. An equipment with electronic sensors that traduce fibers roughness on sound intensity was used. Combability measurements were conducted using the universal test equipment, in which the tresses were submitted to a passing through a fixed comb. Results and Discussion: According to the obtained results, the superficial hair fibers roughness showed equal mean values between the hair groups studied, i.e., the hair with different curvatures showed similar damage degree. The combability analyses showed a crescent energy with the increase of hair curvature. These results are corroborated with sound analyses, in which with the increase of hair curvature there is an increase of sound intensity, indicating a higher friction of fibers with the electronic sensors. Conclusions: The microscopic results analyzed showed that the natural hair of different curvatures showed similar roughness results. However, the macroscopic analysis demonstrated that the responses of energy to combing and sound intensity are also associated with the interaction between the fibers and their aggregation, being therefore, factors that impact the friction of the hair. Thus, it can be concluded that the combination of macroscopic and microscopic analysis is fundamental for a robust analysis of the surface conditions of the hair.

Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2023 (accepted). Doi: 10.1111/jocd.15976 Ana Paula Fonseca, Carine Dal Pizzol, Antonio Carlos Vanzo, Samara Eberlin, Gustavo Facchini, Gustavo Henrique da Silva, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Patrícia M. B. G. Maia Campos. The development of effective products in mitigating the signs of skin aging is a complex process and requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the layers of the skin. In this work, we carried out a clinical investigation to evaluate the tolerance and antiaging efficacy of a cosmetic formulation (AHHF-010) containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants - ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine and niacinamide. Clinical efficacy were performed through subjective and instrumental analysis for collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, suborbital edema by three-dimensional image analysis, skin hydration by corneometry and sebaceous production by sebumetry. Results showed that AHHF-010 was safe and effective in the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis, skin moisturizing, reduction in facial blemishes, swelling and oiliness. Preclinical exploratory approach, using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures, corroborated the antiaging effects of AHHF-010 identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increase synthesis of type I procollagen and upregulation of epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin. The benefits obtained in the evaluated parameters, described in the present study, result from the combination of the established effectiveness of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation based delivery system, which favors solubility, safety, efficacy and bioavailability through the skin.

Arte y Ciencia Cosmética 2021, 35(84): 60-72 ISSN 0122-8072. Adriano da Silva Pinheiro, Viviane Albarici, Angela Cristina Vargas Calle. Desde 2007, varios resultados científicos significativos han influido en el entendimiento sobre la fisiología y la morfología de la fibra capilar. Diversas alteraciones conceptuales ocurrieron en relación a la morfología, el crecimiento y el desarrollo de la estructura macromolecular de las fibras del cabello. La caracterización de las uniones lipídicas covalentes, que consisten en 18-metil-eicosanoico, han sido identificadas. Estas están unidas a proteínas en la capa externa de las células cuticulares, lo que contribuye a las propiedades de superficie de las fibras. También están involucradas en la penetración de los ingredientes en el interior del córtex, incluyendo la rotura de la membrana celular por tratamientos oxidantes, radiación ultravioleta y tensiones derivadas de los procesamientos térmicos asociados a los ciclos de cepillado sucesivos. Nuestro conocimiento sobre la estructura del cabello y su formación, a nivel celular y molecular, continúa aumentando rápidamente. Las estructuras y la nomenclatura de las proteínas del cabello, determinadas con base en filamentos intermedios y proteínas queratinizadas continúan evolucionando. Esto también sucede con las familias de esos filamentos y proteínas. La secuenciación de proteínas del cabello y las relaciones entre proteínas y genes, incluyendo mutaciones, están comenzando a encajar de forma más significativa. Aunque todavía hay mucho por descubrir sobre los mecanismos de acción de los productos destinados a alterar la forma de la fibra capilar, se observa un crecimiento vertiginoso de la aplicación de sustancias fuertemente ácidas en el cabello. La adhesión masiva de los consumidores a estos tratamientos ha llevado a la formación de una nueva especie de conformación queratinizada que todavía necesita ser descifrada. Sin embargo, surgió una nueva estructura, que es deformada, rígida, fuertemente queratinizada, con ausencia de células cuticulares. Esta es la estructura del cabello del siglo 21.

FarmaCosmética 2023, Bogotá, 08-10 March, 2023 - Poster. S Eberlin, G Facchini, GH Silva, S Eberlin, ALTA Pinheiro, AS Pinheiro. El desarrollo de enfoques alternativos para las pruebas de seguridad y eficacia de productos destinados a humanos que eviten el uso de animales es una tendencia mundial que se impacta directamente en la mejora de modelos y herramientas más cercanas a la biología humana. Los fragmentos de piel humana obtenidos de la cirugía plástica electiva constituyen el modelo experimental que más se aproxima a las condiciones reales para evaluar los efectos de los productos aplicados tópicamente. En este sistema, están presentes todas las poblaciones celulares nativas de la piel, incluidos los queratinocitos, melanocitos, células de Langerhans y toda matriz dérmica, que contiene fibroblastos, colágeno, elastina, glicosaminoglicanos, entre otros. En este estudio, presentamos una colección de resultados obtenidos por nuestro grupo en los últimos años, que incluyen el uso de fragmentos de piel y cuero cabelludo humanos. Nuestros esfuerzos han establecido un sistema de prueba con tamaño y espesor estándar y crecido en una interfaz aire-líquido. Esta configuración resultó en un modelo con alta reproducibilidad y adaptado a diferentes condiciones experimentales, revelando resultados positivos en el uso de la piel humana como una herramienta para evaluar diferentes desenlaces de la piel, como fotoenvejecimiento, piel seca, dermatitis atópica, envejecimiento de folículo piloso, permeación, entre otros. Estos estudios comprenden metodologías específicas mediante diferentes técnicas, como la inmunofluorescencia y el inmunoensayo, así como estudios más complejos que utilizan las plataformas ómicas para comprender la compleja interacción del tejido cutáneo con el entorno extrínseco. Este sistema de prueba ha demostrado ser un recurso excepcional que, junto con estudios clínicos, permite el diseño de la ruta de acción y las vías involucradas en el tratamiento de anomalías cutáneas, además de la toxicología dérmica.