Pre-clinical and Clinical evaluation of antiaging properties of a dermocosmetic formulation
Author: Samara Eberlin
Published at: September 18, 2018
30th IFSCC Congress (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists), Munich, 18-21 September, 2018.
Alberto De Lago, Eduardo Hernandez, Tania Z Reyes, Pinto JR, Albarici VC, Facchini G, Silva MS, Pinheiro ALTA, Pinheiro AS, Eberlin S.
Studies have shown that many factors, such as skin inflammatory processes and prolonged exposure to sunlight, could affect the skin barrier and extracellular matrix, inducing a decrease in the synthesis of major dermal proteins like collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, which are clinically characterized by wrinkles, rough skin, loss of water, and skin tone. In this study, we evaluated the in vivo effects of a dermocosmetic formulation in increasing firmness, elasticity, and hydration of the skin using instrumental techniques and perceived efficacy. Preclinical studies consisted of assessing the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid using an in vitro model of human fibroblasts. Clinical evaluation was performed after 14, 30, and 60 days of treatment with the dermocosmetic product and included a sensorial analysis of perceived efficacy through a questionnaire answered by the participants. In addition, the following instrumental analyses were performed: cutometry (to evaluate skin firmness and elasticity), corneometry (for hydration), and image analysis (to evaluate wrinkles and expression lines). Human dermal fibroblasts were incubated with non-cytotoxic concentrations of the dermocosmetic formulation. Cell culture medium and treatments were replaced every 2 days. Culture supernatants were collected after 1, 14, and 30 days of incubation. The levels of total collagen and hyaluronic acid were measured using commercially available kits. ANOVA test was used, followed by Bonferroni post-test with a 5% significance level. The instrumental results obtained for firmness and elasticity parameters revealed progressive increases after 14, 30, and 60 days of cosmetic treatment on the face and neck. The analysis of cutaneous hydration, evaluated after 24 hours of application, revealed a 12% increase using the corneometry technique. Imaging of the depth and size of wrinkles also revealed significant reductions. In the evaluation of perceived efficacy, over 80% of the volunteers reported improvements in attributes such as nutrition, softness, luminosity, and the appearance of wrinkles and expression lines after 14, 30, and 60 days of cosmetic treatment. In vitro results corroborated the clinical findings, demonstrating an increase in the production of total collagen and hyaluronic acid in cultures of fibroblasts treated with the dermocosmetic formulation. According to the results obtained, we conclude that the dermocosmetic formulation has the ability to stimulate the synthesis of total collagen and hyaluronic acid when compared to the untreated group. This effect is directly related to improved skin support, favoring tissue repair and regeneration. In addition, the stimulation of extracellular matrix components contributes to the reduction in the formation of expression lines and wrinkles, one of the most important changes in skin aging, conferring anti-aging activity to the evaluated product.