Increase of epidermal proteins involved in the maintenance of skin barrier in human skin keratinocytes cultures by a moisturizing cosmetic

Author: Samara Eberlin

Published at: October 08, 2014

23rd EADV Congress (European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology); Amsterdam, October 8-12, 2014.
Polettini AJ, Eberlin S, Clerici SP, Pereira AFC, Weisz LTM, Barbosa AS, Lage R, Costa A.

Numerous biochemical reactions take place during the transition from the basal layer to the stratum corneum (SC), including the synthesis of keratins and cornified envelope-associated proteins. The epidermal differentiation complex (EDC) is constituted through cross-linking of involucrin, loricrin, profilaggrin, among others, on the intracellular surface of the plasma membrane in the upper spinous and granular layers of the epidermis. Studies have shown that variation in EDC results in the pathogenesis of at least three common skin disorders: ichthyosis vulgaris, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis. In this study, we evaluated the effects of a moisturizing cosmetic (MC) on the production of some envelope proteins and keratins, using an in vitro model of human keratinocyte cultures. Incubation of keratinocytes (KC) with MC promoted significant increases in the synthesis of envelope proteins filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin. We also evaluated the ability of MC to stimulate the production of keratins K10 and K14. A significant rise of 35.1% and 23.7% was elicited in the production of keratin 10 and 14, respectively, in relation to the control group. Both the water content of the SC and skin surface lipids are important factors in the appearance and function of the skin barrier. Optimized skin care cosmetics should be developed to provide a proper moisturizing effect while also being capable of balancing the synthesis of skin barrier proteins. In this study, we demonstrated the ability of a moisturizing cosmetic to increase the levels of all proteins evaluated. The results indicate a biological activity of this skin care product in the promotion of skin barrier integrity.