Effects of a moisturizing glycol-matrix delivery system formulation in envelope proteins and extracellular matrix in cultured human skin cells
Author: Samara Eberlin
Published at: November 02, 2016
29th IFSCC Congress (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists), Orlando, 30 outubro a 02 novembro, 2016.
Vanzo-Jr AC, Pereira AFC, Torloni LBO, Lage R, Mercuri M, Viana EAA, Silva SG, Satake CY, Maciente GO, Figueredo TT, Clerici SP, Pinheiro ALTA, Facchini G, Eberlin S.
Keratinocytes suffer numerous biochemical reactions during the transition from basal layer to stratum corneum (SC), including synthesis of specific basal (K14) and suprabasal (K10) keratins and cornified envelope-associated proteins. Epidermal differentiation complex (EDC) is constituted through cross-linking of involucrin, loricrin, profilaggrin, among others, on the intracellular surface of the plasma membrane in the upper spinous and granular layers of the epidermis1-2. Studies have shown that many factors, such as skin inflammatory processes and prolonged exposure to sunlight, could affect the skin barrier and extracellular matrix, inducing a decrease in the synthesis of the major dermal proteins, collagen and elastin, clinically characterized by wrinkles, rough skin, and loss of water and skin tone. In this study, we evaluated the effects of a moisturizing formulation on the production of envelope proteins filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin, keratin 10 and 14, and extracellular matrix collagen and elastin using an in vitro model of human keratinocytes and fibroblasts.
The moisturizing formulation system with a unique, three-dimensional glycol-matrix delivery system that releases moisturizing molecules sequentially into the stratum corneum, resulting in a highly significant improvement of both immediate and long-term skin hydration, containing Glycerin; Enteromorpha Compressa Extract; Hydrolyzed Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum; Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum; Rheum Rhaponticum Root Extract, and Tocopheryl Acetate, was provided by 1MANTECORP SKIN CARE, CECI - Innovation and Consumer Studies Center, Barueri/SP - Brazil. Human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes were incubated for 48 hours with three concentrations of the moisturizing formulation previously determined by the XTT method. The levels of collagen and elastin were measured respectively in fibroblast culture supernatant and cell lysate using a precipitation commercial kit (Biocolor, UK). The synthesis of filaggrin, involucrin, loricrin, keratin 10 and keratin 14 was measured in supernatant from keratinocyte culture using a colorimetric competitive enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay - ELISA (Uscn Life Science Inc., Houston, TX, USA).
The one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) test was used followed by Bonferroni post-test with a 5% significance level. Our results demonstrated that incubation of fibroblast cultures with the moisturizing formulation increased the synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins collagen and elastin up to 43.33% and 41.62%, respectively, in relation to the non-treated group. The incubation of keratinocyte cultures with the moisturizing formulation increased levels of involucrin, filaggrin, loricrin, keratin 10, and keratin 14, reaching up to 43.84%, 37.04%, 32.02%, 20.89%, and 18.05%, respectively, in relation to the non-treated control. The water content of the SC and skin surface lipids are important factors in the appearance and function of the skin barrier3. Traditional moisturizing ingredients are known to decelerate the loss of skin humidity, increase hydration of the SC, and improve physical and chemical properties of the skin surface, making it moist, smooth, and soft4. However, most products claimed for skin moisturizing produce an immediate and transient effect. Thus, optimized skin care cosmetics should be developed to supply a proper moisturizing effect and, at the same time, be capable of balancing the synthesis of skin barrier proteins5 and protecting against down-regulation of the extracellular matrix. In this study, we evaluated the ability of the moisturizing formulation in the production of proteins involved in stratum corneum and extracellular matrix integrity. The moisturizing formulation increased the levels of all proteins evaluated. Our results indicate a biological activity of this skin care product in the promotion of cellular hydration and skin barrier integrity.