Protective effects of an active complex against unbalanced biomarkers induced by infrared-A radiation, blue light and heavy metals: an integral approach of skin aging

Author: Samara Eberlin

Published at: December 21, 2020

Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 83(6) Supplement 1, AB175, 2020.

DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2020.06.790

Liliana Bechelli de Oliveira Torloni, Lara Lopes Facó Yokoya, Erida Aparecida Pinto Magaton, Luciana Gimenez, Ana Lúcia Tabarini Alves Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin

Premature skin aging is mainly attributed to solar radiation and air pollution. Harmful effects promoted by these extrinsic factors include oxidative stress and antioxidant depletion, disturbance of the skin barrier and extracellular matrix, loss of elasticity and firmness, hyperpigmentation, among others. In this study, we evaluated the preclinical efficacy of an active complex (AC), composed of Lespedeza Capitata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, and Acrylic Acid/Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonic Acid Copolymer, against damages caused by infrared-A (IRA) and visible light (VL) radiations, as well as exposure to heavy metals (HM), using human cell cultures. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes were incubated with 3 non-cytotoxic concentrations of AC and subjected to IRA, VL, or HM exposition, for later quantification of biomarkers involved in cutaneous photoaging. In relation to IRA protection, AC demonstrated a prophylactic effect against the exacerbated increase in matrix metalloproteinase-1 synthesis, resulting in the preservation of collagen, which is a fundamental structure for tissue support. Regarding protection against VL, particularly in the blue light spectrum, AC has the ability to prevent opsin-3 decay, thereby inhibiting marked activation of the melanocortin receptor and preventing the increase of melanogenesis. Protection against air pollution was performed on cell cultures incubated with a heavy metal pool. The results showed that AC prevents the cellular internalization of metals, indicating a possible chelating action. Taken together, these results reveal a potential use of AC as a booster in skin care formulations aiming to prevent the effects of daily stress that skin is exposed to.