In vitro assessment of vasoprotective and anti-wrinkle activity of a cosmetic product for eye care

Author: Samara Eberlin

Published at: October 08, 2014

23rd EADV Congress (European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology); Amsterdam, October 8-12, 2014.
Eberlin S, Polettini AJ, Clerici SP, Eberlin S, Pereira AFC, Lage R, Torloni LBO, Costa A.

Evidence suggests that periorbital hyperchromia occurs mainly as a consequence of post-inflammatory hemodynamic congestion, producing a typical bruising aspect on the lower eyelids. The local inflammatory process compromises the microvascular network due to the release of vasoactive mediators, such as nitric oxide (NO), which is synthesized from inducible NO synthase (iNOS) after tissue disturbance. Another common manifestation observed in the periorbital area is the presence of fine wrinkles as a consequence of connective tissue breakdown due to the increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) after cytokine and eicosanoid stimulation. In this study, we evaluated the effects of a cosmetic eye care product (EC) on the production of MMP-1, MMP-9, tissue inhibitor of MMP-1 (TIMP-1) and TIMP-2, collagen, elastin, transforming growth factor (TGF-β1), and iNOS, using an in vitro model of human fibroblasts. UV radiation promoted significant increases in the levels of MMP-1, MMP-9, and iNOS, and decreases in collagen, elastin, TGF-β1, TIMP-1, and TIMP-2 synthesis compared to the control group. Concomitant treatment of cell cultures with EC reduced the levels of MMP-1 and MMP-9 by up to 65% and 72%, respectively, compared to the UV-stressed group. Increased levels of iNOS were also prevented by EC treatment, reaching undetectable levels similar to the baseline control. EC treatment also increased elastin, TGF-β1, and TIMP-1 release in relation to the UV-stressed group (98%, 6%, and 75%, respectively). Although the precise mechanisms related to EC remain to be clarified, our results indicate that the reduction of iNOS levels against deleterious UV radiation may be considered an integral approach to preserving the integrity of the vascular endothelium, providing adequate cutaneous circulation, which is essential for maintaining healthy skin function and is strongly related to skin color. Furthermore, our results indicate a putative effect of EC on extracellular matrix arrangement, strengthening its use in aesthetic eye care.