Effects of a cosmetic formulation containing nanoencapsulated glycolic acid on protection and restoration of extracellular matrix in human fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and skin explant
Author: Samara Eberlin
Published at: September 18, 2018
30th IFSCC Congress (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists), Munich, 18-21 September, 2018.
Mamy Honda Igarashi, Andreia Feital da Costa Pereira, Renan Lage, Sheila Gomes da Silva, Maurizio Mercuri, Elis Angela de Alcantara Viana, Giulia Okamoto Maciente, Amanda Francielli Pereira, Suelma Natalie de Melo Oliveira, Michelle Sabrina Silva, Gustavo Facchini, Ana Lúcia Alves Tabarini Pinheiro, Samara Eberlin.
Extrinsic aging is attributed to changes in the skin, mainly influenced by ultraviolet radiation (UV). Proinflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin 1 (IL-1), produced as a result of exposure to UV radiation, induce the production of MMPs in fibroblasts, resulting in an exacerbation of the degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) components, contributing to photoaging. In this study, we evaluated the effects of a cosmetic formulation containing nanoencapsulated glycolic acid on the production of collagen type I and III, MMP-1 and 9, and IL-1? using an in vitro model of human keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and skin explant. Human fibroblasts and keratinocytes were incubated for 48 hours with three concentrations of the cosmetic formulation previously determined by the MTT method. Cell cultures were exposed to a dose of 10 J/cm² UVA/B radiation and incubated with fresh culture medium for 24 hours for the measurement of collagen type I and III, MMP-1 and 9 (fibroblast), and IL-1? (keratinocytes). At the same time, human skin fragments originating from elective plastic surgery were treated with the cosmetic formulation for semi-quantification of pro-collagen type I through immunofluorescence. As expected, our results demonstrate that UV radiation reduced the production of collagen type I and III and elevated the synthesis of MMP-1, MMP-9, and IL-1?. However, in comparison to the group exposed only to UV radiation, the cosmetic formulation significantly stimulated the production of collagen type I and III in all evaluated concentrations. In relation to MMP-1 and -9 synthesis, the cosmetic formulation was able to prevent the rises induced by UV radiation exposure. The increase in IL-1? production was also reduced when keratinocyte cultures were pretreated with the cosmetic product. Immunofluorescence for pro-collagen type I was shown to be strongly increased in the treated group when compared to the control group. The results obtained allow us to infer that the cosmetic formulation containing nanoencapsulated glycolic acid exerts a positive effect on skin protection against photoaging, increasing the production of collagen and reducing the production of IL-1?, MMP-1, and MMP-9 induced by exposure to UV radiation, thus protecting and restoring the extracellular matrix.